We practically have a non-traditional couple, the one whose connection resembles more a friendship with benefits (financial ones, of course) than true love. Croatian politics likes to play moral police (although they lack the actual authority in that domain), and has the blessings of the Catholic Church to do so. As a consequence, the nation and the naturists prefer to “not make it official”, and are often on the edge of a breakup.

If we would strip away the ongoing exploitation of the concession contract and the impending “urban” development of the area, we could truly see Kandarola Beach as  a precious FKK paradise. On the sun-kissed southern side of the Frkanj peninsula (part of the Kalifront or Capo Fronte peninsula), the century of public bathing in birthday suits claimed home in peaceful coves shaded by thick pine trees. With clear waters begging you to take a dip from pebbled beaches or even go all-in and jump straight from the rocks, it’s easy to see the appeal of skinny dipping at Kandarola.

Coves on this side of the island are historical safe havens. Kvarner Bay may be the best sea route between Dalmatia and Istria/Venice, but it can still get extremely windy and dangerous. The storms have seen a pope seeking refuge in Rab, but also numerous shipwrecks of those who didn’t manage to call for help. Sailors who survived the raging waves were those who knew they could find shelter in Rab’s western coves.

There are new “storms” threatening Rab’s naturist sanctuary, and safe havens for nudists may be no more. This is the naked truth of Rab’s FKK Kandarola Beach’s glorious past and questionable future.

Nudism and politics – FKKing things up

Social nudism in Croatia bloomed in the era of Yugoslavia, when religious influencers were not as powerful, and politicians didn’t have to worry about re-election, so they calculated less.

Almost paradoxically, Croatian acceptance of public nudity was more liberal in communism, as the society recognized the commercial potential of naturism. While other European countries were barely dipping their toes into nudist membership clubs, Croatia proudly cannonballed into the scene, opening full-scale naturist resorts. Koversada in Vrsar was established the first, in 1961.

But as time went on, the nudist landscape in Croatia saw some shrinkage. Out of the 34 naturist camps that flourished in the 1980s, only 10 remain today. Textile enthusiasts invaded exclusive naturist territories, fencing off the nudists in their enclaves, or exorcizing them completely.

In places like Rovinj, once firmly established FKK beaches are slowly being erased. Even the one tucked kilometers away from prying eyes – Punta Križ beach in Monsena – is under increased public scrutiny in recent years, with municipal policemen paid to prevent “indecent acts” between relaxed beachgoers.

While Croatia was busy patrolling what consenting adults do in their free time, other European countries like France and Spain snatched the title of the most hospitable naturist destinations.

Croatian politics could afford to exercise the moral verticality on nudists (because, why bother with politically-enabled crimes?) simply because the country had a strong textile tourist pool to rely on.

The European integration in the last decade, which culminated this year with Croatia joining the Schengen space and adopting the euro (meaning more open borders and even more open wallets), solidified the country’s position as a tourist hot spot. There are no more passport controls, but vehicles are now queuing on highways, as old-fashioned tolling methods transform by Croatian speed.

While EU systems are in place mainly nominally, old habits die hard. Croatia is still one of the most corrupt member states, where rules can be bent if it serves the particular interests of those in power and those close to those in power.

And naturists became sacrificial lambs. After all, naked people don’t exactly scream deep pockets.

If you're a naturist looking to spend holidays in Greece, check out these clothing-optional hotels!

The Emperor has no clothes

You surely know Andersen‘s famous folktale “The Emperor’s New Clothes”. It’s the story painting the intellectual vanity of corrupt minds. The two swindlers sell the emperor a suit that’s invisible to those who are incompetent and stupid. The emperor then, dressed in nothingness, parades through the town, with nobody aspiring to admit the obvious truth, as it would expose their weakness. Until an innocent child shouts out that the emperor is naked.

Prince Harry partied in Croatian swimming pool fully clothed and changed only the tabloid headlines. King Edward VIII swam in Croatian sea naked, and changed history

Royal protocols are extremely strict. They do not allow free spirits to misbehave and endanger the precious image, the cornerstone that empires rely on. Croatia, perceived as a place of indulgence, and the English royal court, perceived as a buttoned-up house of rules, have an ambiguous connection. Croatia was supplying its finest wines for the coronation of both Queen Elizabeth II and King Charles III, but at the same time, it also played a role in stripping royal members of their privileges.

In 2020, Prince Harry stepped down from his royal duties that he later described as a “trap”. With a history of scandals that ranged from donning a Nazi uniform for fun to stripping naked at a party in Las Vegas, Harry had trouble conforming to the stuffy royal mold. Reports from his drunk club nights on Hvar, another famous Croatian island, showing Harry jumping into a pool fully clothed, did not amuse the royal family.

While the Prince’s clothed swim in Croatia may never be a truly historic event, King Edward VIII‘s clothless swim in the previous century definitely left a mark.

The stories of fleeing royal misfits are somewhat similar, from disobeying court protocols and performing a series of scandals, to having their romantic choices with American women disapproved and sympathies toward Nazi Germany questioned.

In 1936, King Edward spent less than a year on his throne, from January to December, when he abdicated because of forbidden love. But hey, at least the couple had a Croatian summer to remember.

King going au naturel at Kandarola

It was August 1936. The Summer Olympics in Berlin were in full swing, with sports representatives saluting the mustached man that will change the world.

Freikörperkultur (FKK) or Free Body Culture movement was growing in Germany, with Hitler’s namesake, Berliner Adolf Koch opening sports centers devoted to nude athletics, in the spirit of the original Olympic Games. The Nazi regime was quick in shutting these centers down. Sharing strictness with the Communists in Eastern Berlin, the idea was the same: naked gatherings were simply a no-go.

Of course, in true colors of hypocrisy, in his spare time, Adolf Hitler was painting nude portraits of his own niece and indulging in the company of Eva Braun, whose naked photographs would eventually surface too.

While the Führer didn’t like to appear in public with his mistress, believing that their photographs would endanger his self-explanatory appeal to women, in the European South, one leader cared less about hiding his amorous adventures.

King Edward VIII took a divorced socialite Wallis Simpson on a cruise of the Adriatic Sea. Even if they were photographed together, the British press did their best to not write about the king’s controversial relationship with a despised American, a woman deemed unworthy of the royal family’s acceptance.

The forbidden lovers arrived in Šibenik, hopping off a train from Paris. On August 10, they embarked on the luxury Nahlin yacht that would soon be seen cruising in Trogir, the Velebit Channel, and eventually anchoring in – Rab.

The most scandalous couple of their time decided to spice things up, and with the approval of their Rab hosts, made a bold move. They took their clothes off, and plunged into Kandarola Beach waters, embracing the naked freedom.

The paparazzi dawn was still behind the horizon, so King Edward’s nude pictures never made it to the front pages. Yet, the scandal still brewed. King’s photographs in swimwear were considered dishonorable enough to ignite an abdication crisis. The British public had never seen their monarch bare-chested before.

Edward’s Mediterranean adventure with a double divorcee would never be approved by the Anglican Church or the UK government. Confronted with that reality, the royal enfant terrible shocked by choosing love over the throne. The course of British history was forever altered.

Ponder this: had King Edward never visited Rab and experienced the allure of total freedom on FKK Kandarola Beach in 1936, his niece Elizabeth might never have become a queen, the longest-running British monarch in history. Who knows, maybe that’s why she insisted on making a toast at her coronation with Croatian wine.

Bare beginnings on Rab

While naturists across Europe celebrated King Edward for disrobing royal garments, Rab was home to naturism even before this prominent pioneer tested Kandarola’s inviting waters.

Online sources often mention the article “Trade in Nakedness”, published in the Austrian economic journal Trend no. 11/83, supposedly claiming that, already in the late 19th century, Rab hotels had reserved 50 beds for naturist guests.

There are also mentions of the Czech Josef Herman writing about naturism in Rab in his article in 1907, as well as certain Professor Günther in 1912.

Richard Ehrmann-Falkenau, a man destined to become the first president of the International Naturist Federation in 1953, made his mark on Rab’s sandy shores in the 1930s. Seeking respite from Hitler’s nude-bathing bans in his hometown of Vienna, he found shelter in Croatia’s more welcoming attitude toward FKK. In 1934, he is said to have christened the first naturist beach in Rab and fostered a thriving nudist colony.

Rab’s wild wild west – nature preservation with a parking fee

Getting to Kandarola, fondly dubbed the English Beach in honor of its royal visitor, is possible by taxi boats from Rab town harbor or Škver town beach.

While I knew it would take me a full hour if I decided to go there on foot from my accommodation, I still gave it a go. After all, my hiking trail was gonna lead me through the unspoiled landscape that has been proclaimed a Geopark back in 2004.

It should be easy, I thought. I’d enter the Premužić Trail at the ramp just above the emergency helipad at St. Euphemia Bay, follow it as it traces along the northern coast of Frkanj, and then before reaching two little coves (one of which is called Mala Dražica or, in loose translation, a Little Clit), cut to the other side.

It would be hard to miss the center of attraction, as I found myself at a wild parking lot at the end of the fire road that should be closed off for traffic by another ramp.

Due to the forest environment protected by the state firm Hrvatske šume (at least on paper), this road should be used only for fire emergencies. Paradoxically, that emergency could be caused by mainly car visitors. There have been protests against them in the past, mostly led by taxi boat operators losing customers, because nothing motivates nature preservation better than lost income.

Still, a girl was sitting at the entrance to the Rab’s wild west, obviously charging motorized visitors for the convenience of parking in a protected forest.

Freikörperkultur, not so frei

I exited the forest on the southern coast of Frkanj, and Kandarola Bay opened up, a series of shoreline indentations that would first see Gavranišće Beach, and then the iconic FKK Kandarola Beach.

The path seemed straightforward, but then out of the blue, an older mustached gentleman sitting behind an equally blue round desk stopped me. Sporting policeman vibes, he pointed at a signboard nailed directly to a tree declaring “concession charge = 4 euros”.

Free access to beaches is nominally a hot Croatian topic, but I wasn’t about to dive into a political debate by exclaiming that beaches cannot be privatized in such a way. I just innocently voiced my confusion, as I was simply following the designated Premužić Trail. It didn’t mention I should pay a toll for free passage to a random guy behind a blue table, controlling a couple hundred meters of shoreline.

“What Premužić Trail? There’s no such thing!”, claimed the man who, later I would find out, was called Josip Jurešić Kačka. He became the carrier of the County-given concession for the exploitation of FKK Kandarola Beach in 2015, eleven years after Rab City signed an agreement for establishing the Geopark, an initiative aimed at protecting and sustainably utilizing the island’s natural heritage.

Even if I was clearly following the free Premužić Trail marked by the signboard, Mr. Concession outright denied its existence and just demanded his toll.

It was already late afternoon and, softened by my hiking goals, he decided to show mercy and offer me a half-price passage to the other side of his concession beach. I wasn’t given a receipt nor a ticket, even if his makeshift concession board had a Tax Administration sticker proclaiming “Bez računa se ne računa” (something like “No bill, no deal”).

Well, there was also a sticker forbidding photography. It’s rather convenient to be able to hide one’s malpractice behind the guise of protecting nudists’ rights.

Instead of denying the existence of hiking trails, Rab should embrace them fully. After all, why wouldn't it have even trails dedicated to - naked hiking?

Profiting on a barricade

Josip Jurešić, the owner and the only employee of Boja d.o.o. (translated as Color Ltd.), the micro-enterprise specialized in wall painting and glasswork that was chosen as the most favorable bidder for economic exploitation of a nude beach, sadly had all legal rights to perform his toll collection.

Croatian concessioners may charge for the entrance to nudist beaches for security reasons. Because one feels more secure as soon as one pays for breathing air

Even if Croatia mainly gives concession permits to bidders providing beach amenities, there are rare cases when the state allows charging the entrance to the concession area, and even fencing.

FKK Kandarola Beach on Rab is one of 18 such exceptions. Those were mainly given to campsites, high-end hotels, and some nude beaches. Often, they are explained by “security reasons”. Of course, all of us know that beaches become more secure as soon as you charge the beachgoers for breathing air.

While Jurešić’s concession was given legally, history has taught us that legality and legitimacy are not the same things (even that German mustached chap made his way to power through elections). We have all the rights, even duty, to question the legitimacy of barricading public paths for private exploitation.

Mr. Concession practically hit a jackpot with this curious arrangement, as all he needed to provide were some parasols, sunbeds, and a kiosk with a terrace. But don’t think that you can use these amenities just because you paid for the entrance. A day’s use of a sunbed will cost you an additional five euros.

Are visitors happy with what they get for “free” at least? Let’s read the latest Tripadvisor review: “Infrastructure poor: 3 freshwater showers only and two small toilets only at restaurants/bar Kanderola for a lot of visitors, not well maintained.”

Wall painter showing true colors

I disobeyed the photo ban, and at the end of the day decided to snap some photos of a part of the concession area, which in total covers some 3.000 square meters of land.

While the concession permits a modest number of 20 parasols and 20 sunbeds, my eagle-eyed lens counted a far greater abundance. The real number is closer to 40 parasols, and each is accompanied by not one, but two sunbeds, so 80 sunbeds at least.

Instead of capping daily income from sunbeds at 100 euros, Mr. Concession can earn 400 euros, and pocket the difference of 300 euros per day. These violations would already be enough for the County to break the contract and demand compensation, but could this audacious charade go on for 8 years truly unseen?

If we focus solely on the visitors renting sun loungers, we could conclude that this brings 720 euros daily (entrance + sunbed). The yearly concession fee is 12,700 euros, plus a silly amount of 1% from (reported) entrance fees and 3% from other services. This means that only with sunbed users, the concession fee could be covered in a mere 18 days of “work”. And here we did not factor in the beachgoers who sprawl on their own towels, or surely the substantial revenue from the beach bar.

According to the 2022 financial report of Boja d.o.o., the total income was just 85,869 euros. If we take into account that the beach is open from May to October, the report would tell us that the concessioner gets barely 477 euros on an average day. Plus, as the company could have other sources of income beyond the concession included in the sum, they may be reporting even less revenue from the beach.

I leave it up to you to estimate if the business of selling free passage to hundreds of daily visitors to the area, renting out 80 sunbeds, and selling drinks truly yield such modest returns or if the bills just get lost, like mine.

Should you pay for the entrance to FKK Kandarola Beach?

Unless you have an insatiable desire for that beach chair and a desperate need for a post-swim shower, or unless you happen to be an undercover state inspector (haha, right), my suggestion would be to skip altogether the portion of the beach monopolized by this dubious concession.

There are better ways to spend your money. And also, I think it’s morally not right to support overexploitation of marine resources, simply because someone was granted the privilege to do so. There’s something fishy here, and I’m not talking about Kandarola’s sea life.

Just a little further north, beyond the grasps of the profit-hungry concession beach, and before Malovica Bay ending in Suha Punta Beach, there is a growing alternative FKK peninsula, a land bulge where better-informed locals and foreigners come to enjoy nude bathing without the burden of paying anyone for sun exposure.

And the good thing about it is that you can access this area from the Suha Punta side if you don’t want to fight for your right to freely walk the coastline with the toll guy.

Escaping the toll trap: How to get to FKK Kandarola Beach on Rab without paying?

Coming from Kampor, you can reach the Suha Punta settlement by car, but you can also walk toward Matovica Beach, navigating the paths that wind past local houses. I’ll explain the path that seemed the easiest to me.

The most important thing is to NOT follow the turn on the main road marked by an improvised road sign to FKK Beach, and a billboard advertising naked poolside ladies and Biser Kandarola restaurant, also operated by the Jurešić family. That turn would lead you to that doubtfully legal parking lot I stumbled upon when following Premužić Trail, and if you head there, you’ll have to deal with paying the entrance fee.

Instead, continue along the main road from Kampor to Suha Punta further south, and once you spot a modest road sign for apartments with “carpavle” e-mail, turn left.

Now follow this road downward, over asphalt and some macadam.

Turn to the right behind the last house, and walk between the green fence and stone wall, to pass the house.

I haven't stayed here, but the house that you are passing by is a rather convenient place to stay if you want to be accommodated close to FKK Kandarola Beach. Apartments Novak come with a garden, a swimming pool, and free use of bicycles. They have exceptional reviews, so check them out here!

When you get to the field, make a left turn and continue down toward the sea.

You will reach another asphalted road, but you should just cross over that one, and continue following the green path.

Before you know it, you’ll emerge at Matovica Beach. Take a left turn when you reach the coastline, and follow the footpath beside the beach, that will start ascending through the forested area. Some ancient cavemen have drawn male genitalia in the concrete, so you’ll easily recognize you’re on the right track.

If you continue along this path until the very end, you will reach the northern blue-table checkpoint, the official start of the concession beach.

You can turn right just next to the toll-collecting station, and follow the coastline, or cut through the forest anywhere before, including the trail heading south from the town’s official FKK beach sign.

Eventually, you’ll exit at the seaside, and be in a position to look for the best spot for free parking of your beach towel. There’s a pebbled beach for easy water access, as well as rocky areas to jump from. Visitors find small nooks and crannies amidst the rocks or shaded areas under the trees to set their base.

Where to stay on Rab Island?

Besides already mentioned Apartments Novak, absolutely the closest accommodation to FKK Kandarola Beach on Rab is Apartman Miljenko – Matovica. Practically located just above Matovica Beach (separated just by a patio door), this place with a nice garden offers the convenience of an easy walk to your naked freedom. The place where I stayed, Guest House Violeta, is a solid and affordable option in Palit, just between Kampor and Rab town. That’s a perfect choice for those who want to be closer to the city life, but also not too far away from the nature escape. For those who like to spend their holidays in the center of the action, Arbiana Heritage Hotel in the Old Town will take care of all your 4-star needs. And then, for getting to Kandarola, you can always count on a luxury of a boat transfer from the town’s port.

Spiky sights: spines in the sea, groins in the grove

The free FKK Kandarola Beach is spacious and offers everyone the freedom to enjoy it. A part of the beach is marked by ‘gay only’ graffiti (the right-hand side when looking toward the sea). But there is no strict division and everyone is welcome to use the beach according to basic rules of mutual respect.

Just like with many nude beaches in Greece, the more forested area of this little peninsula is a vibrant cruising zone, as a local told me while I was drying off on the rock from a refreshing swim in Kandarola’s lovely waters.

Side note: there are some sea urchins, so if you don’t want to experience the pain of stepping on their spines, water shoes could come in handy. Or do we say feety, in this case?

Anyway, my newfound beach buddy spilled the beans, explaining the sex rituals among those who get wood in the woods.

“If you just go up any of the paths, you’ll see men cruising around, and then stopping if interested for something more. It can get really busy”, he whispered, claiming he knows guys who spend their entire vacations strolling around. “There’s this guy from Varaždin, and he does it with anyone. I’m not so open to that, especially with foreigners. For some of them, I know their app profiles mention they’re HIV positive, and I don’t want to pick up anything.”

Truth be told, during my two visits in June, I didn’t find the Kandarola bush was as busy as described. Only when I was looking to get to the beach for the first time, a visitor I asked for a direction was clearly eager to show me much more than the beach. But otherwise, I felt it was as decent as nude beaches go, and certainly not something that would require monitoring officers like Rovinj chose to do.

My beach buddy told me that Rab had trouble finding these officers anyway. Nobody wants to do an underpaid job of controlling others for a low salary. Most locals prefer the simpler path of renting out rooms and apartments, which is a much more lucrative and hassle-free gig.

Given the lack of control, it’s no surprise that the concession beach managed to shamelessly sprout four times the number of sunbeds allowed.

Valamar’s hungry whale and gray propaganda

According to this well-informed local, the concession beach is a small fish when compared to the gigantic whale threatening to swallow their FKK paradise from the north.

Valamar, the heavyweight of Croatian hotel operators, already manages five properties on Rab island, including Carolina Hotel & Villas and Suha Punta Apartments, the closest to FKK Kandarola Beach. But these accommodation units are not enough for the hospitality giant’s appetite, so they were pushing for the new urban development plan (UPU 25) that would allow them to build four tourist resorts in Suha Punta, ranging between 300 and 1,140 beds.

The investment worth 100 million euros should also include grooming of natural beaches, deforestation for new facilities, and 500 new jobs, a favorite argument in any politician’s talk on a depopulating island.

The ruling party, HDZ, didn’t have enough council hands to execute the megalomaniacal scheme that would further exploit the greenest part of Rab in the most commercial way.

But this June, the proposal was brought back, my beach buddy explained, and suddenly a member from the opposition party, SDP, timidly raised his hand in favor of the plan.

In an extremely condescending announcement, local SDP president Josip Ivić – Lero hilariously attacked HDZ for arrogancy and irresponsible behavior, declaring that SDP’s final decision to support Suha Punta urban development plan was an expression of a wish that they, “as a responsible party, rise above the inter-party bickering, and enable the conditions for the realization of the investment”.

He also stood against the rumors spread by unnamed sources about the secret coalition between the two parties. Ivić disclosed that SDP never lies, but instead uses “gray propaganda” as adapted truth, where “not all facts are given, but the ones that are – are true”.

For the end of the surreal announcement, he even pulled out a supposed quote from American general George S. Patton: “If you have shed your blood for this country so you could charge for it later to death, say how much this love costs so that we can pay you, so you can go where the homeland can be bought for money.”

Obviously, there is a lot of effort invested to prove that SDP’s vote for the urban devastation of Croatia’s greenest island had nothing to do with corruption. The strange thing here is that this is not a prime topic in Croatian national media at all, which stay mostly silent on the subject. So SDP announcement directly talks to voters, where rumors are seemingly circling.

“How could all of that happen? Shouldn’t you be in the streets, protesting, instead of sunbathing? Shouldn’t you make this politician’s life miserable?”, I asked my beach buddy. There was no real answer, as media hush adequately reflects shrugs of the quiet Rab people, busy with renting out their apartments to tourists.

The silence of the lambs

As dusk settled over FKK Kandarola Beach in Rab, chirping crickets were practically a live metaphor of silence in which once royal naturist paradise was fading away. A public beach was being swallowed by the waves of particular interests from all sides, seemingly with nobody defending its legacy.

Naturism is a lifestyle that embraces nature at its fullest, and it is not an accident that it found its place nestled on Kalifront, in the shades of the most preserved holm oak forest in the entire Mediterranean. Could the real problem lie in the fact that naturists are people of pacific gestures, always happy with a secluded spot on the margins of society?

Kandarola’s storm was happening at the society’s core but in a deafening silence. Will Rab really lose its historical advantage of being a safe haven, and become the soulless site of yet another mass-tourism Disneyland?

We took our underwear off not for nudism, but for some other thingsMarko Sandalić, independent councillor

Amidst the resounding absence of voices, one lone council member sarcastically “congratulated” the leading parties on their coalition against Rab.

Marko Sandalić, from Nezavisna lista pučana Rab (Independent List of Commoners Rab), was vivid in describing the political acceptance of getting raped with harmful investment: “An old German tourist slogan from the eighties led us to Suha Punta with pants off, yet today we took our underwear off not for nudism, but for some other things.”

He went on to expose the shameful handling of the urban development plan, revealing that he was the only council member present during the public discussion. Others, he noted, just appeared on the unlucky 13th session of Rab City Council “raising hands like sheep” for the project decided by “one or two people” in HDZ establishment.

“We are turning the destination into an Aquapark right next to the cleanest sea in this part of the Mediterranean, in Suha Punta”, Sandalić said in the announcement published on Rab Danas. “But the water for those pools has to come from somewhere, doesn’t it? No one wondered how much natural water wealth must be taken up in Lika for a Kraut to swim in Aquagan right next to the sea. The current government didn’t have the nerve to ask the councilors or the department heads, let alone the citizens about this project.”

“We can only persevere with our goals and opinions, to act and to fight for them as much as we can. Most importantly, we cannot do what others are doing right now – KEEP QUIET!”, Sandalić concluded.

FKK Kandarola Beach on Rab denuding the corruption – conclusion

The story of FKK Kandarola Beach on Rab Island could have been one of a unique and liberating getaway. Instead of raising a monument to its historic contribution to the naturist movement, the politics enabled exploitation that can only threaten its natural appeal.

Sandwiched between one over-exploitative concession and another upcoming mass tourism project that Croatia already has enough of, this secluded stretch of Rab’s coastline is doomed to disappear.

Rab is giving up on the shade of ancient forests that gave the island its name, and enabling shady business instead

Surrounded by lush Mediterranean vegetation, pristine waters, and stunning landscape, it was almost a perfect recipe for those who wanted to throw off the shackles of societal norms and simply be one with nature.

But the appreciation for the great outdoors doesn’t produce dollar signs in the eyes of shortsighted local politicians as much as bland resorts that count the number of beds or concessioners that miscount the number of sunbeds.

Unable to see the value of preserving the unspoiled beauty that drew visitors in the first place, Rab is giving up on the shade of ancient forests that gave the island its name, and enabling shady business instead.

Hans Christian Andersen warned us where unchecked power and the human desire for material things eventually end. But even more than just pointing out how easily our incompetent and unwise rulers can be deceived and corrupted, the moral of the disrobed emperor story lies in depicting the danger of social pressure and blind conformity.

It’s disheartening to see the lack of raised local voices, and even the absence of media reports in Croatian language which would thoroughly research, analyze and question the rulers’ headless frenzy.

The silent surrender with which Croatian natural wealth is handed over to exploiters for not more than Judas coins is a disturbing portrait of society’s downfall.

I intended to write a simple travel blog post about yet another naturist beach. Yet, I found myself standing on the Rab coastline littered with enough shipwrecks already, and a boy in me whispered that I should shout.

The emperor is NAKED!

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Rab cake was considered so sacred and special that its recipe has been kept secret, almost like a relic, behind the thick walls of the local abbey for centuries

I traveled to Kvarner Gulf, where Rab has been known as the Happy Island since Roman times. This was the birthplace of Saint Marinus, the founder of San Marino, but also the place that pioneered naturism, with the audacious King Edward VIII making headlines by embracing skinny-dipping.

However, a delectable treat of rapska torta, born in the medieval city-state thanks to an unexpected pope visit, is the most illustrious product of Rab that should convince you to include the island in your Dalmatian itinerary.

Not every cake can boast of receiving the honor of approval by the pope himself. Rab’s unique pastry, crafted by skilled hands in the local nunnery, holds that distinction.

The cake was considered so sacred and special, almost as the skull of St Christopher, the patron saint of travelers, housed in the local Church of Saint Justine, that its secret was equally shielded with devotion and protected as a treasure for centuries.

Well, the mystical veil gets lifted today, as we explore Rab cake’s origins, reveal the ingredients and recipe of this heavenly treat, and expose the secrets behind the mouthwatering flavors that delighted generations of Croatians. Indulge in rapska torta, the cake that puts a smile in the Happy Island!

Kuća rabske torte – the home of the melted ‘b’

The most eager ambassador in promoting Rab cake is called Kuća rabske torte. For a decade now, nestled in the heart of Rab’s Old Town, this charming museum-meets-temple is dedicated to the island’s most famous dessert. Their employees tirelessly knead the cake dough and sculpt the scrumptious filling into traditional spiral forms. The culinary sanctuary could have the fastest bakers handcrafting the snail-shaped sweet, but those eager tourists’ mouths are even quicker.

But wait a minute. Why is this establishment called Kuća rabske torte when the cake it produces goes by the name rapska torta? I can see the confusion in your eyes. The Croatian language is not the easiest to master, and even when scholars defend the principles of natural speech, the realities of everyday life don’t always conform to those neat linguistic rules.

So if the island is called Rab, should the cake from Rab be referred to as rabska torta or rapska torta? According to the rule of equalization of consonants by sonority, the correct name is rapska torta. But at the same time, we can see that the main institution promoting the island’s tastiest souvenir calls it rabska torta. Even the local and national tourist offices disregard the rule that changes ‘b’ into ‘p’ in front of ‘s’, ignoring the difficulty of pronunciation. For the sake of this article, we will stick with the linguistically sound version – rapska torta, even if this report was made at Kuća rabske torte.

With a full mouth, nobody cares about strict lingual laws. When the scrumptious combination of velvety almonds, zesty citrus, and cherry liqueur crosses our lips and makes our taste buds dance, the bilabial consonant ‘b’ melts in the sound of munching. It’s summer, rules take a vacation too, and everything is forgiven.

Vilma Brna – the woman behind rapska torta revival

Rapska torta is not the easiest to make and it’s even harder to perfect. It demands precision, skill, determination, and a pinch of culinary magic. Just like many other complex cakes, rapska torta is a labor of love.

It was exactly love that brought confectioner Vilma Brna to the island in the groovy 1970s. The man who stole her heart was a local waiter who would later become her husband.

Vilma began creating desserts for the esteemed Hotel Imperial, but her sweet ambitions were bigger than that.

In 1996, she decided to take a leap of faith and open her very own bakery. In a time when only nuns were known for making the Rab cake, Vilma managed to learn its secrets and brought the heavenly treat to the non-religious masses.

Ten years later, Vilma would officially retire, but her Vilma Slastice company would continue on with a new leader. The confectioner passed the whisk to her son, the ambitious chef Josip Brna.

In 2015, a new chapter of the dream unfolded as Josip introduced the House of Rab cake – Kuća rabske torte. He expanded the empire, offering an array of cookies, treats, and eventually even their very own gin.

What started as a one-woman-show, blossomed into a sweet factory employing around 30 people, and raking in a yearly revenue of 1.1 million euros.

Busy bees at Kuća rabske torte

Kuća rapske torte is an authentic place, somewhere between a shop and a workshop. On Ulica Stjepana Radića, right next to the city lodge, I’m greeted by an ever-attentive host, Marinko. It’s always refreshing to step into a place adorned with a genuine smile. I did my part in the service industry, so I know that friendliness is hard to fake, especially in a job that’s a magnet for both wandering passers-by and organized tourist groups all longing to witness the making of Rab cake.

Amidst the constant stream of visitors, Marinko casually tells me his son’s name is Ivan too. And as I open the topic of my upcoming birthday, and the idea of buying their product as a birthday cake, he confesses his son was actually born on the day of my visit, yet he hasn’t managed to find a spare moment to give him a call. Selling Rab cake requires dedicated attention. Even the siren call of the nearby sea, begging for a refreshing dip, must be ignored during the bustling peak season.

When Ružica Ribarić comes to work, her hands don’t stop. Rab cake doesn’t just magically appear out of thin air, after all. “My personal record was 196 cakes in one day”, Ružica tells me, with a smile that could rival Usain Bolt‘s.

“As a matter of fact, we don’t manage to make as many as the sale demands. Here, in front of guests, it’s me in production, but we also have our central pastry shop where we produce Rab cake and all our other cookies too. Yet, there never seems to be enough of us.”

Rab cake history – satisfying the pope’s palate

The cultural significance of rapska torta is based in its history. The origins of Rab cake are in the 12th-century Benedict recipe as, according to the legend, it all started with one unexpected visitor to the island.

It was 1177, and Pope Alexander III and his entourage of ten mighty galleys were returning from the episcopal synod to Italy when a heavy storm hit the Northern Adriatic.

“He actually had to travel from Zadar to Venice, but as the weather was bad, he sheltered in our town’s harbor”, Ružica retells me the story as she deftly cracks the eggs for the cake.

Coincidentally with the arrival of the pontiff and his crew in the welcoming haven, the people of Rab had just completed the renovations of their Cathedral of the Assumption of Mary. It was an opportune moment for the pope to bless their church.

The Benedictine nuns from the Abbey of Saint Andrew set out to surprise the esteemed guest. To express their respect and gratitude, they crafted a divine cake carefully selecting the flavors reminiscent of the traditional sweets of Siena, the pope’s birthplace in Italy. While there is a theory that Arab sweets inspired the creation of the famous ricciarelli di Siena in the 14th century, the similarity in ingredients between the macaroon biscuits and Rab cake might suggest that inspiration arrived even earlier, with the pope.

Rab cake continued to be perceived as precious, becoming the darling of noble palates during Venetian rule. Considered the food of the wealthy elite (the poor actually mimicked the cake with humble pine nuts instead of almonds), rapska torta ascended to the throne of ultimate cake for holidays and special occasions. Even today, baptisms, first communions, confirmations, and weddings on Rab are religious sacraments that would be deemed blasphemy without the presence of rapska torta.

Rab cake ingredients

Originally made on communion wafers, the key ingredients of Rab cake were almonds and eggs. According to Ružica, whose name itself translates to ‘little rose’ in Croatian, the original Rab cake recipe from the 12th to 16th century featured a splash of rose liqueur. “Later, Franciscans brought maraschino cherry liqueur from Zadar, and since the 16th century, maraschino was used.”

In the old days, when the world was a little less connected, gastronomies celebrated all things local. So even Rab cake was made with ingredients that were readily available on the island back then.

“Before, Rab Island had really a lot of almonds. As Punta Luna on the island of Pag was also under Rab’s jurisdiction, our ancestors were planting almonds there too. That’s why our cake’s crucial ingredient is almond”, Ružica explains.

“As the climate changed, sadly we don’t have almonds on the island anymore. We manage to bring it in from the other parts of Dalmatia, near Benkovac and Zadar, but the rest comes from anywhere where we can get it, depending on the demand. Luckily, citrus fruits successfully grow on Rab, so we do have our own oranges, tangerines, and so on.”

And that’s the backbone of the flavor profile of Rab cake: the alchemical blend of almonds, lemon/orange zest, and cherry liqueur.

Unlike other available online recipes, Ružica reveals that she puts butter into the filling. It’s a little twist that elevates the indulgence factor and makes each slice even more irresistible.

Rab cake recipe – decoding the delicious

“Until a hundred years ago, it was unthinkable to get your hands on the recipe for Rab cake. The cake was made primarily by Benedictine nuns, and a few women here in the Old Town, but they also kept the recipe, they didn’t like to give it away”, Ružica says.

If you dare to crack the rapska torta’s secret code by consulting the “all-knowing” AI models of today, despite their enormous data pool, they will typically just spew out some blathering that won’t get you far. That’s how well the secret was hidden.

Keeping the Rab cake recipe out of the sight of even neighboring villages was considered a matter of prestige. But the most tightly sealed lips eventually did part ways, and the longest-guarded town secret spilled into secular kitchens, where the divinity of the dessert could be achieved by anyone who approached it with hallowed commitment.

“That’s right, the elderly ladies who were regularly going to church, made friends with the nuns, and eventually they got their hands on Rab cake recipe”, Ružica tells me. “But while the nuns preserved the recipe from oblivion, written on a piece of paper with calligraphy, it only reveals the ingredients, without measures. So the secret still exists. We have to achieve the result we want on our own. You have to make rapska torta at least 100 times to get it right. Because the ingredients must be felt under fingers.”

Basically, making this treat is a dance between intuition and experience. The Rab cake recipe can even hardly be put into words. Still, to cut your journey of trial and error, we’ll give it a go here!

How to make rapska torta: A step-by-step guide, from preparation to serving

For the crust:

– ½ kilo flour
– 8 eggs
– water
– salt
– sugar
– maraschino liqueur

For the filling:

– 2 kilos almonds
– 2 kilos sugar
– 12 eggs
– ½ kilo butter
– 2 dcl marachino liqueur
– peel from 6 lemons and 2 oranges

Steps for making Rab cake

1. The first step has to be made a couple of days before you want to bake the cake. Blanch the almonds in boiling water for 10 minutes, peel off their skins, and let them dry at room temperature for 2-3 days.
2. The second step – the making of the dough – should be done a day before you want to bake the cake. It’s similar to pasta dough, but with a twist of sugar and maraschino liqueur, for that aromatic touch. After you knead the dough by hand (just like everything is done by hand in this recipe), let it rest overnight in the fridge. That will make it easier for tomorrow’s work.
3. On the big day of baking, half of the work is already done. Roll out the dough, and let it dry a bit, as that will enable easier lacing (creating the decorative mold for our filling). The dough should be really thin. Remember, long ago, the cake base was sacramental bread, the one Christians consume during the Eucharist. So your dough has to be as thin as a wafer.
4. Grind the dried almonds.
5. Combine the ground almonds, sugar, melted butter, citrus peel, eggs, and a good cup of liqueur. If you cannot get your hands on maraschino cherry distillate, you can experiment with something similar. Mix by hand until compact. The mixture should not be too hard, nor too soft, just right.
6. Place the rolled-out dough on flour-dusted parchment paper, on an oven tray. Cut the dough base into your desired shape (you can use a paper form to guide you). The traditional shape is the one of the snail’s shell, but it could be just a regular bar (baštun), a heart, a horseshoe, letters, numbers, or anything you imagine.
7. The filling mixture should be compact and sticky enough to be shaped in any desired form. Place the filling on your dough base, and shape it nicely.
8. Use a fork to gently rake the top of the placed filling, for aesthetics.
9. If you want to additionally decorate your cake, you can place whole almonds on top of the mixture, marking the beginning and the end of the cake.
10. Cut out the dough ribbons, some 1,5 cm in width, and use them to lace the sides of the cake. The process consists of gently pressing the dough strips towards the almond mixture, creating little ruffles, as well as towards the bottom base, so it all connects and holds together during the baking.
11. Preheat your oven to 150 degrees Celsius, and let the cake bake for 20 minutes.
12. When the cake cools down, you can dust it with powdered sugar, decorate it with Bianca Neve flowers, or even serve it on a lace napkin. Pair it with a cup of coffee or tea, but a shot of maraschino will also do.

As they would say in Croatian, dobar tek! Bon appétit!

Cake whisperer’s tips and tricks

• The amounts of ingredients in this recipe may seem like a cake army but fear not, and adjust them to fit your needs. For instance, a snail-shaped cake requires half a kilo of filling. So go ahead and play with the proportions!
• Using high-quality ingredients is key. Always blanch the almonds by yourself, as pre-peeled almonds from the supermarket may not produce the desired result.
• While Rab cake can be eaten warm, it is actually a cold cookie. Its shelf life is two months, as its abundant sugar content acts as a preservative. Remember, this is a millennium-old recipe, from the times when there were no refrigerators or electricity.
• Do everything by hand. Temperatures and moisture vary in summer and winter, and you may need to adjust your ingredients, either by adding more eggs (in cold months) or more almonds (in warm months). One gets the feeling for it by doing it, that’s why it’s important to use your fingers, as well as make a hundred Rab cakes before you master the craft.

If you still need support in making your cake, check out how Ružica does it in our rapska torta video recipe!

The experience of Rab cake

If you followed my sugar rush from Korean desserts in Seoul to Hungarian desserts in Budapest, you may already know I’m a vulnerable sweet tooth.

On paper, rapska torta reads like a sugar avalanche, but it’s surprising how its balanced flavors hit your tongue, and it doesn’t feel overtly sweet at all. I am actually somewhat disturbed, as when you enter Kuća rapske torte, controlling yourself while tasting free samples is an incredibly hard task.

During my visit, I see tourists dropping in, equally captivated, with eyes wide open, and mouths salivating at sight. Sometimes, it’s not convenient for them to buy the cake, as they are heading to the beach, but that doesn’t stop them from entering and tasting samples, with a promise they will purchase the cake before leaving Rab.

Delightfully light and airy, this subtle bite from the Happy Island provides a harmonious mouthfeel. As comfort food, it embodies the warmth of Croatian cuisine. While it springs off from Benedictine nuns and gets celebrated as the centerpiece of Christian festivities on Rab, rapska torta is so devilishly good that most non-religious souls could equally surrender to this temptation. Resistance is futile.

Rab cake is not only a symbol of the island of Rab. Its cultural significance and contribution to local identity were also recognized and protected as national cultural heritage. The art of preparation of rapska torta, that’s orally passed down through generations and can be tracked to at least the 18th century, has been included in the Register of Cultural Goods of the Republic of Croatia, under the label Z-7348. It’s not just a cake; it’s a slice of history.

Rapska torta price – sweetness in every size

At Kuća rabske torte, one can find Rab cakes of various sizes and shapes. Rapska torta price depends on your cravings, and any desire will get an offer.

If you’re seeking a bite-sized souvenir, the round 40-gram cake costs 5 euros, and 100-gram – 7.10 euros. These are perfect for a quick indulgence.

The most popular among the buyers, however, is the 200-gram Rab cake, shaped like a petite bar. Wrapped in cellophane, it costs 10.80 euros, and if you want it in a cardboard box, the price will be 11.60.

For the adventurous souls who crave a grand experience, there are XXL Rab cakes in the traditional spiral form. The half-kilo cake is priced at 26.94 euros, and the kilo cake – 47.70 euros.

If you want the most special Rab cake, the generous 400-gram heart can be yours for the irresistible price of 19.80 euros.

From abbey to airport: Where to buy rapska torta?

The very best Rab cake is produced at Kuća rapske torte, which is open to visitors from 10 am till midnight every day.

If you want the most authentic cake, you should head to the creators themselves – the Benedictine Abbey of St. Andrew. The nuns’ shop is open Monday through Saturday in the morning hours (9 am – 2 pm), and Monday through Thursday in the evening hours (6 – 8 pm). Besides the cake, here you’ll find a cornucopia of wonders: healing tinctures and ointments, jams, liqueurs, and even massage oils. The Rab cake made by Benedictine nuns costs 7.30 euros (200 g).

Rapska torta can also be bought at many local pastry shops, souvenir havens, restaurants, and hotels.

If by some twist of fate, you miss them all, you could score your Rab cake at duty-free shops in Croatian airports, as your last resort before leaving the country.

Where to stay in Rab?
Now, the crucial question of where to rest your weary head after indulging in the delightful world of Rab cake. Here are some accommodation options that will perfectly complement your sweet adventures. 

For those with a  taste for refined elegance and a penchant for historic grandeur, look no further than Arbiana Heritage Hotel. Nestled along the seafront, this beauty from the opulent era of the Austrian-Hungarian Empire offers 4-star rooms starting at 123 euros per night in the off-season, and 300 euros at its peak. 

Slightly more affordable, but not compromising on comfort, is the 3-star Hotel International, where Vilma Brna started her sweet Rab journey. A room here can cost between 120 and 189 euros per night, depending on the season. 

I stayed at private accommodation in nearby Palit. Guest House Violeta is operated by a genuinely warm and supportive family, and you can get a room there for 50 to 100 euros per night. That price will allow you to save some dough for extra slices of Rab cake.

Rapska torta, a cake fit for a pope – Conclusion

Rab cake or rapska torta (or even rabska torta, if you insist) is a culinary superstar of Rab that showcases the rich cultural heritage of Croatia, and the country’s dedication to preserving traditional recipes.

Its unique blend of local fragrant flavors (from citrus fruits and almonds to renowned liqueur from the Zadar region), with its delicate execution, make it a truly unforgettable dessert.

Rapska torta is a reason enough to travel to Rab and loosen that belt buckle

Even if described as a “dry cake” with a long shelf life, Rab cake’s mouthwatering taste and texture regularly surprises everyone who tries it. It’s a struggle to take just one bite of this unique cake-tart.

From its humble beginnings on the island of Rab, where its absence from any celebration could provoke a curse, to its revered status as a protected cultural treasure, this traditional cake has endured the test of time and continues to entice food lovers worldwide.

Rapska torta is a reason enough to travel to Rab, loosen that belt buckle, and discover Croatia’s legacy compressed into a single dessert perfected through centuries.

If Rab cake’s recipe was worth all the trouble of guarding it as a top-secret, and passing it down by word of mouth through Croatian family trees (because what’s whispered and not written down can hardly be stolen), it has to stand for something.

Guarded by the sisters of the church, behind the thick walls of Rab town, with practically a status of a holy relic, the culinary masterpiece exposed something deemed impossible. Even decadence can find its place in Pope-approved reverence.

Did we awaken your appetite for Rab cake?
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