Pipeaway https://www.pipeaway.com/ mapping the extraordinary Sun, 16 Feb 2025 19:31:31 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=6.7.2 Airport Jewel Overnight: Best Things to Do at Singapore Changi Airport in 24 Hours https://www.pipeaway.com/singapore-changi-airport-24-hours/ https://www.pipeaway.com/singapore-changi-airport-24-hours/#respond Sun, 16 Feb 2025 18:11:14 +0000 https://www.pipeaway.com/?p=13325 I spent 24 hours at Singapore Changi Airport, by conscious choice. Read my report on a layover like no other - overnight at the world's best airport!

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When I was recently faced with the option of a long layover at Singapore‘s Changi Airport, I embraced it wholeheartedly. And when I say “long”, I mean – loooooong. Very long. More than 24 hours long! That’s right, I rang in the New Year at an airport. Not just any airport, though. Changi is consistently ranking as the best airport in the world. Have I died of boredom and written this from the afterlife? Nope. I lived it to the fullest, and now I can confidently report: there are fantastic things to do at Singapore Changi Airport. In fact, 24 hours might not be enough to take it all in.

Changi Airport Singapore proved that an airport doesn’t have to be an obstacle on the way to the final destination. An airport can be – the destination

Not everyone loves airports, I get it. Most are cold, soulless, generic buildings, without personality or surprises. A nuisance of long-distance traveling, almost unavoidable.

But Changi International Airport is not just any airport. So when I was booking my Scoot flight from the Philippines to Thailand via Singapore, I intentionally chose the longest available layover. Between the three offered transit times (1 hour, 8 hours, and 23 hours), the lengthiest connection seemed the most appealing.

Launched 44 years ago, it was already impressing with its Terminal 1, then 2, 3, and 4. But with the newest addition of the retail/entertainment complex Jewel, Changi Airport Singapore cemented its reputation as an extraordinary place.

It proved that an airport doesn’t have to be an inevitable obstacle on one’s way to the final destination. An airport can be – the destination. The one you don’t want to leave.

In today’s Singapore Changi Airport review, peek inside this iconic place! Find out why it is so famous, what makes it special, and most importantly – what to do in Changi for 24 hours!

Singapore Changi Airport guide

Singapore Changi Airport history

Wondering about Changi Airport’s origins? Singapore Changi Airport opened in 1981, on a patch of land that served as a British military airstrip during World War II.

With a dramatic increase in passengers, Paya Lebar Airport, the country’s previous main hub, was bursting at the seams in the 1970s. It was clear that simply expanding Paya Lebar would be like trying to fit an elephant into a carry-on suitcase. Singapore decided not to patch up the old but to start afresh.

Due to the possibility of land reclamation, the new location wouldn’t have space constraints, noise pollution and safety concerns, as Paya Lebar had with its first neighbors. And so, in 1975, the construction of Changi Airport began.

From the very beginning, Changi’s design was meticulously planned, with functionality and future growth and expansion in mind. Every detail was scrutinized, from runway capacity to terminal layouts, ensuring that the airport could handle the increasing demands of global travel.

On July 1, 1981, at 7:00 am, the first commercial flight by Singapore Airlines landed on Changi runway from Kuala Lumpur; photo from Changi Experience Studio reel.
Singapore Airlines baptizing Changi runway in 1981

On July 1, 1981, at 7:00 am, Singapore Airlines flight SQ101 brought the first passengers, 140 of them, from Kuala Lumpur to Changi’s virgin runway.

The airport didn’t just rest on its laurels after its grand opening. Over the decades, it expanded with new terminals and infrastructure. Changi’s history is one of relentless innovation and an almost obsessive commitment to passenger experience.

Where is Singapore Changi Airport?

Singapore Changi Airport (IATA code: SIN, ICAO code: WSSS) is located on the eastern edge of Singapore, approximately 20 kilometers (12 miles) from the city center. It sits near Changi Beach and is well-connected by the East Coast Parkway (ECP) expressway, Mass Rapid Transit (MRT) via the East West Line and (soon) Thomson-East Coast Line, as well as various bus routes.

Singapore Changi Airport terminals

Singapore Changi Airport is split across four passenger terminals and Jewel Changi Airport. Each terminal offers a distinct vibe while contributing to the overall idea of a seamless travel experience.

The archive photo of the completion of Singapore Changi Airport's Terminal 1 in 1981; photo from Changi Experience Studio exhibition.
Changi’s Terminal 1 as it once was, in 1981

Terminal 1 – The OG of Elegance

The original terminal that started it all in July 1981, Terminal 1 is as classic as it is modern. Over the years, the H-shaped terminal has undergone several facelifts, blending nostalgia with state-of-the-art features. Known for its rooftop pool (yes, you can take a dip while waiting for your flight!), it’s a favorite for those who love a touch of relaxation with their travels.

Terminal 2 – Efficiency Meets Comfort

Debuting in December 1990, and then reopening in 2023, after the pandemic-era expansion, Terminal 2 has always been about making travel smoother. It’s a hub for families, thanks to its kid-friendly amenities and wide dining options. After a recent upgrade, it boasts smart features that make everything from checking in to boarding feel effortless.

Terminal 3 – Futuristic Flair

With its iconic green walls and natural skylight design, Terminal 3 feels like a sanctuary more than an airport. Opened in January 2008, it’s famous for its Butterfly Garden – because, why not? Throw in a massive duty-free shopping area and luxurious lounges, and it’s easy to see why many travelers secretly hope for a longer layover here.

Terminal 4 – Compact, Yet Cutting-Edge

Launched in October 2017, Changi Terminal 4 may be the smallest but it’s also the most high-tech. With automated check-ins, facial recognition boarding gates, and contactless everything, it’s the future of travel rolled into a boutique experience. Plus, its Peranakan-themed shopping street adds a splash of Singaporean culture.

Terminal 5?

Currently under construction and set to open in the mid-2030s, Terminal 5 is Changi Airport’s ambitious leap into the future. When completed, it will be one of the world’s largest airport terminals, capable of handling 50 million passengers a year – almost doubling Changi’s current capacity. Expect a mega terminal that runs on smart technologies, integrates eco-friendly infrastructure, and offers a passenger experience tailored for the next generation of travel.

Jewel Changi Airport – The Crown Jewel

Though technically not a terminal, Jewel Changi Airport deserves its own spotlight. Opened in April 2019, Jewel is connected to Terminals 1, 2, and 3. It’s a S$1.7 billion-worth wonderland of attractions, including the Rain Vortex and an entire indoor forest! Whether you’re shopping, dining, or just gawking at its architectural brilliance, Jewel at Changi is a destination worth traveling for.

Night lights at Jewel Changi Airport, with the Rain Vortex and Shiseido Forest Valley, and a Christmas tree on New Year's Eve; photo by Ivan Kralj.
The New Year’s Eve atmosphere at Jewel

Singapore Changi Airport architecture and design

Changi Airport’s architecture is a masterclass in balancing aesthetic appeal with operational efficiency.

From expansive glass facades that flood spaces with natural light to the abundance of greenery that turns waiting areas into tranquil retreats, the design philosophy prioritizes openness and comfort, creating a welcoming environment for passengers.

The original building of Terminal 1 set the standard with its efficient layout. As newer terminals were added, the architecture evolved to incorporate cutting-edge technologies and innovative features, like automated check-ins and energy-efficient systems. Terminal 3’s unique roof, designed with skylights shaped like inverted cones, diffuses sunlight to minimize glare while maintaining a bright ambiance.

Perhaps the most striking example is Changi Airport Jewel, an architectural marvel that seamlessly combines retail, nature, and entertainment. Its iconic centerpiece, the Rain Vortex – the world’s tallest indoor waterfall – is surrounded by the Shiseido Forest Valley, a multi-tiered garden. Jewel embodies Changi’s ethos: to turn the mundane act of transit into an unforgettable experience.

Every architectural decision at Changi is made with the traveler in mind, from intuitive signage to ergonomic seating in open, uncluttered spaces that reduce stress levels. The result is an airport that feels more like a part of the journey, than a waypoint.

A man walking over the Canopy Bridge in Jewel, Changi's sky dome; photo by SaMaN, Unsplash.
Canopy Bridge walk over the Shiseido Forest Valley

Can you walk between terminals at Singapore Airport?

Yes, you can walk between the terminals at Singapore Changi Airport, but it depends on where you want to go. Here’s a quick breakdown of how to navigate this mini-city of an airport:

  1. Skytrain passing by the Rain Vortex in Jewel Changi Airport, Singapore; photo by Nathaniel Yeo, Unsplash.
    Skytrain transiting through Jewel

    Terminals 1, 2, and 3 are connected via air-conditioned link bridges, which include travelators, the moving walkways that save your leg energy for duty-free shopping. For quicker transfers, Changi Skytrain, a free automated train service, also links these terminals at frequent intervals.

  2. Terminal 4 is separate from the other three. While it isn’t connected by walkways or Skytrain, Changi Airport shuttle buses provide free and frequent transfers to Terminals 1, 2, and 3, and back.
  3. Jewel is directly linked to Terminals 1, 2, and 3 via pedestrian walkways with travelators, making it easy to explore between flights. If you’re flying in or out of Terminal 4, you’ll need to hop on the free shuttle bus to reach Jewel.

For long layovers, walking between terminals is an excellent way to soak in the architecture and amenities. Whether you choose to stroll, glide, or ride, Changi makes terminal-hopping a simple, quick, and efficient routine.

How long does it take to clear immigration at Changi Airport?

Clearing immigration at Changi Airport is now faster than ever, thanks to a fully implemented passport-less clearance system. For most travelers, the process takes an average of 10 seconds (yes, seconds!), a significant improvement from the previous 25 seconds.

Singapore residents can clear immigration using only facial and iris biometrics, while foreign visitors still need to present their passports upon arrival but can use the biometric system when departing. Blink, and you are through!

As long as you have submitted your SG Arrival Card within three days before arriving in Singapore, passing through immigration should be as smooth as Singapore Sling.

Singapore Changi Airport attractions – the highlights

Now that you have a basic sense of orientation at Singapore Changi Airport, it’s time to look deeper into what truly makes it a destination in itself. Before I share how I exactly designed my 24 hours at Changi, I wanted to highlight the most popular attractions that you should consider including in your layover bucket list.

1. Singapore Changi Airport waterfalls

Most airports struggle to keep their drinking fountains working. But Changi has not one, not two – but multiple waterfalls!

When someone mentions ‘Singapore Changi Airport waterfall’, the first association is usually the Rain Vortex (Jewel Changi Airport). Standing at 40 meters, it’s the world’s largest indoor waterfall, gushing dramatically through Jewel’s lush heart, jungle-like atrium. The record-breaking wonder looks like something straight out of a sci-fi movie, and by night, it turns into a light-and-sound spectacle.

If you thought waterfalls were strictly an H2O affair, think again. In the departure hall of Terminal 2 (public area), there is an immersive digital waterfall – the Wonderfall. This ultra-HD, 14-meter LED display mimics the look and feel of water torrents crashing into boulders. No risk of getting splashed, but just as mesmerizing.

A digital waterfall made up of 892 LED tiles, known as the Wonderfall, at the check-in area of Singapore Changi Airport's Terminal 2; photo by Ivan Kralj.
Analog or digital, Changi’s waterfalls don’t cease to impress

Well, there are also smaller waterfalls hidden around the airport – find them at the Tropical Rainforest Vivarium, or in the Butterfly Garden.

2. Canopy Park Jewel Changi

Imagine a theme park in the clouds, and you’ll get Jewel Changi Airport Canopy Park. The playground at Jewel’s top level features foggy bowls to walk through, sky nets to bounce off of, and artsy flower sculptures that invite a selfie. Canopy Park Jewel Changi is part jungle, part trampoline park, and 100% unexpected from an airport.

People walking on the Bouncing Net, as seen from below, in the Canopy Park of Jewel Changi Airport in Singapore, photo by Ivan Kralj.
Bouncing Net is one of the most popular attractions in Canopy Park

3. Jewel Changi Mirror Maze

Lost in transit? No worries, because you can get lost on purpose in the Jewel Changi Mirror Maze. There is also a classic Hedge Maze, but the labyrinth made of mirrors and upgraded with greenery is an optical illusion playground that puts your navigation skills to the ultimate test. These mirrors reflect, distort, and confuse your sense of direction – basically, it’s the funhouse version of looking for your departure gate at a massive airport.

Woman walking with a pink foam stick through the kaleidoscopic Mirror Maze in Canopy Park, Jewel Changi Airport in Singapore; photo by Ivan Kralj.
Just follow the foam stick, and eventually you’ll find your way out 😉

4. Changi Experience Studio

Learning about an airport can be high-tech entertainment. Located at Level 4 of Jewel, the Changi Experience Studio is an interactive museum where visitors can play aviation-themed games, explore a virtual control tower, and even race against a Boeing 747. Spoiler: the plane wins. Or was I sitting on the bike powering the aircraft, which means that – I won? In any case, a fun calory-burn.

Sky Deck is an immersive space showcasing the connectivity of Singapore Airport with many other cities presented on the screens displaying the world map, at Changi Experience Studio; photo by Ivan Kralj.
On Changi Experience Studio’s Sky Deck, explore the connectivity of Singapore Airport with other destinations

5. Butterfly Park Changi Airport

Changi’s Butterfly Garden in Terminal 3 is the world’s first butterfly habitat in an airport. Home to over 1,000 butterflies from 40 species, this tropical paradise lets you trade pre-flight stress for fluttering beauty and fresh jungle vibes. The garden even includes a 6-meter-tall grotto waterfall.

Butterfly sleeping upside down at Butterfly Garden, inside Singapore Changi Airport, Terminal 3; photo by Ivan Kralj.
A butterfly parked for the night at Changi

6. Singapore Changi Airport Pool

A plane flying over the swimming pool on the roof of Singapore Changi Airport's Terminal 1, part of Aerotel transit hotel; photo by Ivan Kralj.
Take a quick dip in a 1.2-meter-deep swimming pool!

Why pace the terminal when you can do laps in an airport rooftop pool?

Adjacent to Terminal 1’s Aerotel Transit Hotel, this swimming pool with a jacuzzi is perfect for pre-flight relaxation.

If you prefer to workout, there is even a little gym attached.

Warm up for Changi Airport shopping with a quick treadmill session!

7. Changi Jurassic Mile

If you thought Singapore Changi Airport was all about futuristic wonders, you were wrong. It can transport you to prehistoric times too!

T-Rex attacking over the fence at Changi Jurassic Mile, an outdoor dino trail at Singapore Changi Airport; copyright Changi Airport.
T-Rex attacking over the fence of Changi Airport

Changi Jurassic Mile is a 1-km outdoor dino trail lined with life-sized T-Rexes, raptors, and even a dino hatching from an egg. Whether you’re cycling, walking, or running for your life from a Velociraptor (relax, they’re statues… I think), it’s a roaring good adventure.

Changi Jurassic Mile is located just next to Terminal 4, but you can also walk or cycle to it from Terminal 2 (rent your bike at Hub & Spoke for 10 Singaporean dollars per hour).

Don’t confuse this attraction with Jurassic Bark, a dedicated outdoor space for much friendlier creatures – your dogs. The first dog run facility within an SE Asian airport is located close to Changi’s Terminal 2, and next to the flowering garden trail beloved by butterflies.

8. Singapore Changi Airport Slide

Why take the stairs when you can launch yourself down the world’s tallest airport slide? Located in Terminal 3, this 12-meter-high slide provides fun for both kids and adults. To get 10 free rides down the Slide@T3 (and that’s actually the maximum number of rides you can take in one day), all you need to do is sign up for a free Changi Rewards membership.

Slide@T3 and Climb@T3, two adventurous attractions at Singapore Changi Airport's Terminal 3; photo by Ivan Kralj.
Two attractions at the same spot – one heading up, the other one going down

9. Singapore Changi Airport Cinema

A great way to cut down the long layover time is to watch a movie. Cinemas in Changi’s Terminal 3 screen blockbusters for free, making them the ultimate escape from overpriced coffee and boarding gate boredom.

Changi Airport Movie Theater in the transit zone, just next to Ambassador Transit Hotel, Level 3, is open 24 hours, and has 50 seats.

In the public zone of T3, Level B2, ST3PS is open from 10 am to 10 pm and, besides movies, it also screens live football matches, or hosts yoga sessions and live performances on its stage.

People watching a film at ST3PS, public-area movie theater at Changi Airport in Singapore, Terminal 3; photo by Ivan Kralj.
Henry, wake up. You’ll miss your flight!

10. Singapore Changi Airport Kinetic Rain

Forget ordinary airport art – Changi’s Kinetic Rain is a hypnotic, 1,216-piece moving sculpture in the public zone of Terminal 1 (departure hall) that shifts into mesmerizing patterns. It’s like a ballet performance, only with bronze droplets gracefully morphing into waves, airplanes, and abstract designs. Watching it is oddly soothing.

Kinetic Rain, a moving sculpture of bronze droplets forming various shapes at Singapore Changi Airport's Terminal 1; photo by Ivan Kralj.
Kinetic Rain floating at the check-in area of Changi Terminal 1

How to spend 24 hours at Singapore Changi Airport?

With the overview of Singapore Changi Airport’s main attractions, let’s craft the ultimate layover itinerary. I will be sharing exactly what to do in Changi for 24 hours, or at least how I filled up my layover time, step by step, hour by hour.

But just one more burning logistical question to address first: Can I bring luggage to Jewel? Technically, yes, you can normally come to Jewel with your suitcase. But should you? Probably not. If you’re planning to explore Jewel’s top-level attractions, like the Walking Net or the Bouncing Net, lugging a suitcase around is not just a bad idea. It’s not even permitted! There are free storage boxes near these facilities, but they are designed to keep your smaller valuables, such as wallets and purses, not full-sized carry-ons.

What to do with your luggage?

Transit passengers – Luggage storage at Changi Airport

If you are a transit passenger like myself, chances are your checked bag is already en route to your final destination. But even bulky hand luggage can become a nuisance if you start dragging it around an airport packed with adventures.

Thankfully, there is a solution for that. Each of the four Changi terminals has a dedicated baggage storage point in the transit zone (always on Level 2). Additionally, this service operated by Smarte Carte is available in the public zones too, at Terminals 2, 3, and 4, as well as Jewel (always on Level 1).

You should be strategic about where to store your belongings. While the fee guarantees a maximum of 24 hours of storing, you are not allowed to access your bag at your convenience, just because you forgot to take something out of it. If you request your bag at certain moment, and wish to keep it stored again afterward, you’ll need to pay once again.

Changi baggage storage charge for regular-sized hand luggage (below 10 kilograms) is SGD 11 (1 Singaporean dollar equals 71 European or 73 US cents, so the basic price is approx. 8 euros/dollars). If you have just an item smaller than A4 paper, they’d charge you 6 Singaporean dollars. Luggage weighing more than 10 kilos would leave you without 16 dollars. And if you travel with larger objects (over 70 x 90 cm), such as a bicycle or a surfboard, you’d have to pay SGD 19.

I decided to store my bag at Jewel, as having it in the vicinity of the entertainment zone that doesn’t allow it, seemed the most convenient. I would feel really bad if I were forced to leave the public area of the airport just in order to access something from the bag if I had left it in the transit zone.

Passengers from Singapore – early check-in

If you are starting your journey in Singapore, you can still enjoy 24 hours of hands-free airport exploration, if you choose the right airline.

There is an Early Check-In Lounge at Jewel (Level 1). Unlike airports that allow checking-in only 2 hours before departure, Changi lets you do it much earlier, depending on your airline.

  • 3 hours before departure – Most airlines.
  • 12 hours before departure – Japan Airlines, Jetstar, Cathay Pacific.
  • 18 hours before departure – Scoot (except flights to Jeddah).
  • 24 hours before departure – AirAsia, Singapore Airlines (except USA-bound flights), Turkish Airlines (selected flights).

Flying one of these airlines? Congratulations – you get to experience Changi like a VIP, luggage-free, for a full day, if you want so!

Now, with logistics sorted, let’s dive into the ultimate hour-by-hour Changi layover itinerary. Get ready for a day of waterfalls, mazes, butterflies, and a rooftop swim!

Singapore Changi Airport things to do – my personal itinerary

As a transit passenger at Changi Airport, you can only exit and re-enter the transit area once. So besides deciding where to store your bag, you also need a solid game plan – one that maximizes your time without the regret of missing a must-see attraction.

I won’t lie – I spent a day and a half just planning. But it was worth it, as in the end, I managed to experience the best of Changi Airport – Jewel and Terminals 1, 2, and 3 – while aiming to minimize the feeling of being rushed.

However, I did have to make some tough calls. At certain places, I stopped only to take a photo. Terminal 4? Saved for another time. Free Singapore Tour for transit passengers? Also skipped – it would have eaten up too much of my precious layover time.

To make the most of these 24 hours, I divided my Changi itinerary into three strategic phases:

  1. Exploring the transit zones of Terminals 1, 2, and 3 – Since these terminals are seamlessly connected, I wouldn’t have to leave the secure area.
  2. Exiting the transit area to explore the public zones and Jewel – This would let me visit attractions that require stepping out while ensuring I had enough time at Jewel.
  3. Re-entering the transit area for any missed experiences – A final round-up of cool spots I did not have enough time for earlier.

Timing is Everything

One thing I quickly learned? Jewel attractions have the most restrictive opening hours. That’s why I prioritized visiting Jewel in the afternoon and evening, leaving overnight hours for attractions that operate round the clock.

Now, let’s break down my hour-by-hour itinerary, so you can plan your own ultimate layover adventure at Changi!

Changi T1 – Transit Zone

10:30 am – Landing by ‘Success’

After a somewhat delayed landing, I found myself at C pier of Changi Terminal 1, face-to-face with “Success”, Ng Eng Teng‘s sculpture symbolizing strength, confidence, perseverance, ambition, and reliability. Well, Scoot, you shaved 30 minutes off my itinerary, so no sculpture for you!

Passengers resting near Ng Eng Teng's sculpture "Success", part of "The Spirit of Man" artwork installed at Terminal 1 of Singapore Changi Airport; photo by Ivan Kralj.
“Success”! You scored a free resting spot!

“Success” has been installed on the eastern part of the terminal back in 1984. Together with the sculpture named “Achievement” (symbolizing versatility, innovation, dynamism, foresight, and planning, at the D gates – coincidentally where I’d be departing from 24 hours later), this long-standing artwork by the Grandfather of Singapore Sculpture is also known as “The Spirit of Man”.

Weary travelers were already dozing in the rest area, but for me, there was no time for naps. I craved fresh air and sunlight. And where better to start than Changi Terminal 1’s three outdoor gardens?

10:45 am – Cactus Garden

After a couple of travelators, an escalator, and some old-fashioned stairs, I pushed through double doors sealing off the Singaporean heat – and stepped into Changi’s oldest themed garden, the Cactus Garden.

Cactus Garden on the rooftop of Singapore Changi Airport's Terminal 1, with real, but also steel cacti, artwork by Richard Turner and Eric Carroll; photo by Ivan Kralj.
Too much water and a cactus could get all rusty!

While the planes were lifting off all around me, some surely heading to America, Africa, and the rest of Asia, cacti, succulents and other desert plants from these continents were on display in this little rooftop oasis.

The footpath circled around over 100 species of arid plants from around the world, including the Peruvian Apple Cactus, Indian Prickly Pear Cactus, as well as Mexico-native Golden Barrel Cactus, Old Man Cactus, giant Ponytail Palm Trees, and tequila-responsible Century Plant (no samples included).

There were even Sago Palms, a primitive species that survived in southern Japan since the Jurassic period. Well, the oldest specimens here were over 50 years old, still respectful.

Among the real prickly plants were also steel cacti, a signature work by American artists Richard Turner and Eric Carroll. It was just a tiny preview of Singapore Changi Airport’s dedication to immersive places that blend nature, art, and fun.

11:00 am – Water Lily Garden

Descending back to Level 2 of Singapore Changi Airport Terminal 1, with more shops and coffee shops, and another set of double doors brought me out to the peculiar Singaporean heat. But this time, to a garden with plants that couldn’t survive without water.

Water Lily Garden is home to, well, water lilies, and other aquatic vegetation. Next to serene ponds, there were also plants such as yam/taro, which, just like rice and lotus, required wetland to become a yielding food crop.

Water Lily Garden on the roof of Singapore Changi Airport's Terminal 1; photo by Ivan Kralj.
You can simultaneously wait for the water lily to bloom and for your boarding call at Changi

It’s an educational moment at the airport, raising awareness about marginal, submerged, and floating plants as a vital part of the freshwater ecosystem. They support wildlife by providing protection, food, and a place for reproduction.

At this zen garden, even shelters for humans came in the shape of water lily leaves. You could use them to hide from the sun. You could even enjoy your snack here. But don’t get into spawning, if you know what I mean.

11:15 am – Discovery Garden

The last in Terminal 1’s trifecta of outdoor gardens was arguably the most futuristic. Instead of classical flowerbeds, Discovery Garden features three tree-like steel structures dressed in foliage. Elevated walkways meander around the towering displays, offering a close-up view of the greenery.

Raised pathway meandering around foliage-covered steel trees in Discovery Garden, on the roof of Singapore Changi Airport's Terminal 1, with a visitor observing a plane taking off; photo by Ivan Kralj.
Discovery Garden – a place to combine planespotting and plantspotting

This mini rainforest was designed to showcase the harmony between nature and technology. It allows visitors to watch plants and planes at the same time.

As I chilled among these decorative treetops just meters away from the runway, it felt like a preview of Supertree Grove, Singapore’s futuristic botanical utopia at Gardens by the Bay near Marina Bay Sands.

Singapore, with a now-iconic bio-futuristic aesthetic, was clearly committed to integrating nature into urban spaces, even at one of the most bustling airports. Or – precisely because of that?

11:30 am – Tropical Rainforest Vivarium

Besides the outdoor gardens, Terminal 1 had several indoor areas sprinkled with vegetation and fish ponds.

Tucked away, near the Skytrain to Terminal 2, the Tropical Rainforest Vivarium, or better – paludarium, as it included both terrestrial and aquatic flora and fauna, seemed to be overlooked.

Tropical Rainforest Vivarium / paludarium at Singapore Changi Airport, Terminal 1; photo by Ivan Kralj.
A window into the world of a tropical rainforest

The biomes of Southeast Asia and South America are squeezed inside the half-open container, with 53 plant species and 8 types of animals. A forest stream ran through this serene showcase of biodiversity, with shy fish and shrimps hiding inside. So they say.

To be honest, I haven’t seen any animal. But if there had been a stool installed in front of the display, I could have easily spent minutes, or hours, meditating in front of this tiny but lush habitat, listening to the soothing sound of trickling water, and enjoying the scent of the jungle. All of that without a single mosquito bite!

11:45 am – Singapore Changi Airport rooftop pool

With all the back-and-forth between air-conditioned halls and steamy outdoor gardens, my body was practically begging for a refreshment.

As hopping inside the Vivarium was not an option, I took a quick escalator ride up and arrived at Aerotel Singapore Changi (Terminal 1’s transit hotel I would revisit the same evening). But I wasn’t here to check in yet. The next door on the left-hand side automatically opened to one of the most luxurious airport amenities worldwide, launched back in 1995 (!) – the Singapore Changi Airport rooftop pool.

Passengers resting in a jacuzzi by the pool, on the roof of Singapore Chanig Airport's Terminal 1 building, with a plane parked in the background; photo by Ivan Kralj.
Ignoring the call for boarding because of the jacuzzi? Check!

Besides an open-air swimming pool with planes flying over it every few minutes or so, the place was offering a jacuzzi, cabanas, and a poolside Aerobar with cocktails, beer, and snacks. There was even a quiet, children-free hammock zone.

The gym had a treadmill, a stationary bike, weights, yoga mats, and a pilates ball. It was tiny, but it did add to a resort-like layover experience.

A man lifting weights in a small gym adjacent to the rooftop swimming pool at Singapore Changi Airport's Aerotel transit hotel; photo by Ivan Kralj.
Working out between flights? Check!

An entry fee for an adult is SGD 25 (besides pool access, it includes a towel, a locker, and shower facilities). The hotel guests, however, can use it for free.

The pool is open daily from noon to 10 pm, but double-check before your visit. For the year-end, they had it opened at 10 am already, so you might be able to take your refreshing dip even if you have an earlier flight.

Changi T2 – Transit Zone

1:00 pm – Enchanted Garden

Light rain made me abandon the pool haven, and thankfully so, as I was now an hour behind my planned schedule. So I rushed to catch my first Skytrain ride to Changi Terminal 2, getting a fleeting outdoor glimpse of the Jewel dome along the way.

Between the usual forest of shops, Changi Airport T2 welcomed me with its Enchanted Garden, 400 square meters of ferns and flowers, including orchids. One of these was even named after Changi – Dendrobium Changi Airport.

Timber decking path through the Enchanted Garden with a floral arch, and a glass bouquet sculpture filled with seasonal flowers, one of the attractions of Signapore Changi Airport's Terminal 2; photo by Ivan Kralj.
If that’s not a mistletoe, should we still kiss under it?

As I walked over timber decking paths and passed under floral arches, I should have triggered motion sensors to play Borneo rainforest sounds, including insects, frogs, and birds.

But, to be honest, the treat was more visual for me. If they were there, fauna sounds were certainly not immersive enough for me. The soundscape was dominated by the water cascading into a koi pond with a mini viewing platform beloved by kids.

Kids standing on the viewing platform above the koi pond at the Enchanted Garden, an attraction at Singapore Changi Airport's Terminal 2; photo by Ivan Kralj.
See a fish, make a wish?

The centerpiece of the garden were two larger, and two smaller glass bouquet sculptures decorated with mosaic and stained-glass work, each containing seasonal fresh flowers.

My expectations of magic brought to life were possibly too high, but the Enchanted Garden was still a place providing a welcome breather from the usual airport madness, contributing to Changi’s reputation as a green oasis.

1:15 pm – Gourmet Garden

2 Bears Hideout, a themed playground with bears, beehives, and honeycomb, at Singapore Changi Airport's Terminal 2; photo by Ivan Kralj.
Singapore Airport bears casually bathing in the carpet pond and playing climb & slide with the smallest passengers

I really wanted my next stop to be the 2 Bears Hideout. It’s Terminal 2’s sweet playground with a climbable beehive, a bounceable honeycomb, and a slide out of Momma Bear’s tummy so glideable that it seemed to be coated in honey. Unfortunately, this whimsical place was only for kids aged 6-12. If you’re an older traveler looking to slide off some energy before the flight, you’ll need to head to Terminal 3 or Jewel.

But what started with a bear-adise, continued with a lush dining area called Gourmet Garden. It’s a long 24-hour dining street with a biophilic design.

On one side, there was a Greenwall and suspended blade planters with foliage. On the other, there were floor-to-ceiling windows, offering a prime position for plane spotting. This is the ideal place to enjoy your meal while watching aircraft activity on the tarmac.

Gourmet Garden, dining street adorned with plants at Singapore Changi Airport's Terminal 2; photo by Ivan Kralj.
If you’re hungry like a bear, Gourmet Garden will cater to your needs

Singapore Changi Airport’s food offer is a journey in itself. The Gourmet Garden starts with Asian fusion cuisine, offered by places such as Chef Wei HK Cheong Fun (Hong Kong-style dim sum), Wee Nam Kee (Hainanese chicken rice), Ippudo Express (Japanese ramen heaven), The Satay Club by Harry’s (elevated Singaporean skewers), Buk Chang Dong Soon Tofu (Korean secret-recipe soft tofu stew), and The Hainan Story (Hainanese thick toast breakfast and Kopi Gu You, butter coffee from way before bulletproof coffee became a trend).

If you head further south, you’ll find renowned international brands such as Hard Rock Cafe, Gopizza, Luke’s Lobster, Dunkin’ Donuts, and Hudsons Coffee.

For an additional wow factor, you could order your artisanal coffee, tea, or chocolate from Ella, Singapore’s first robot barista.

While tempted like a bear in front of honey, I had a different plan for lunch. But first…

1:25 pm – Dreamscape

Dreamscape, a digital-sky above the towers of 20,000 plants and glass-covered fish ponds, an attraction merging nature with technology at Singapore Changi Airport; photo by Ivan Kralj.
Walking on water is not Dreamscape’s only wonder

Dreamscape was THE Enchanted Garden for me. It was everything I would expect from an immersive indoor garden that merges nature with technology.

Imagine walking on water. No, really!

A huge pond covered with glass panels lets you stroll above colorful fish living their usual life underneath. All along, you’re surrounded by 20,000 plants, raising your gaze to the ceiling.

The Dreamscape has a digital sky that mimics real-time weather conditions above Changi, together with planes and occasional birds flying overhead.
Every 15 minutes, the passenger is transported to a fantastic reality. The chorus of 100 creatures delivers a serenading soundscape, but the true magic is visual.

Expect fish, turtles, stingrays, otters, and boats floating in a virtual pond above you. With the real aquatic world beneath your feet too, this is the closest you can get to the Moses experience. Changi created a real-life wonder of biblical proportions.

Check out the Dreamscape experience at Changi in this YouTube short video!

 

1:45 pm – Free Singapore Tour Check-in Counter

I wouldn’t be joining the Free Singapore Tour, so I just passed by their check-in counter. I didn’t sign up only because I’d already seen Singapore, and my 24-hour airport adventure was already packed.

These free guided tours are exclusively for transit passengers with at least 5.5 hours to spare. The tour itself takes 2.5 hours, but additional time is needed for check-in and security procedures, which seemed too much for my situation. When I return to Changi with another long layover, I’ll certainly hop on one of these tours, and report back.

If it fits you, you can choose between three bus itineraries giving you a quick taste of the island state before your next flight from Changi Airport. These are your tour options:

  1. City Sights Tour – Modern Singapore (Marina Bay, Merlion Park, Gardens by the Bay)
  2. Heritage Tour – Cultural hotspots (Chinatown, Kampong Gelam, Civic District)
  3. Changi Precinct Tour – Explore life beyond the airport in a quaint local village

These tours are a great way to maximize your layover, adding a mini-adventure to your travel itinerary without spending a cent. Well, if you have baggage, you will have to pay for the storage at the airport.

Registration counters for free Singapore tours are located near Gate F50 at Changi T2 and Gate A1-A8 at Changi T3.

If you decide to visit Marina Bay, make sure to hop on the Singapore Flyer, one of the biggest Ferris wheels in the world. You might not have enough time during the free sightseeing tour, but you can always extend the visit to this impressive city-state!

1:50 pm – Sunflower Garden

The final transit attraction I wanted to see at Changi’s Terminal 2 was just slightly trickier to find. I didn’t notice any signposts to it until I was already at Level 3, where further upgrading renovations were underway. But basically, just between the Free Singapore Tour booth and the Dreamscape, or more precisely, between the Fragrance‘s pork jerky and Lotte‘s duty-free wines, you should be able to find a somewhat hidden elevator bringing you to the top.

I stepped outside on a bright terrace, and a field of golden flowers greeted me. The Sunflower Garden opened in 2002, as another themed space to provide travelers a respite from the bustling airport life.

Sunflower Garden on the roof of the Singapore Changi Airport's Terminal 2, with a plane flying above; photo by Ivan Kralj.
Planes and sunflowers reaching for the sky together

I always believed sunflowers turned their heads towards the sunlight. I don’t know how they did it (please drop the comment if you know), but here, as you walked around, between groups of different sunflower varieties, they were all looking at you, the observer. How on earth did they manage to make this blooming audience focus on the circling spectators? Beats me.

Changi’s shiny rooftop garden isn’t just a decoration for yet another viewing mall of the runway and aircraft parking bays. It is a special holiday spot for blooming flowers which come here after spending about 90 days in the airport’s nursery. The facility produces at least 2,000 sunflowers every single month!

And don’t worry if your flight lands in the wee hours. The Sunflower Garden never closes, with special lighting bathing the blooms at night. I had the best intentions to return in the evening, but with so many things going on at Changi, I simply forgot. So if you visit, send me a picture of the “moonflowers”!

2:00 pm – Ambassador Transit Lounge – lunch and shower break

Airport food can get pricy. If you’re having a longer layover like me, an airport lounge access would help your wallet. I didn’t travel in the business class, but thanks to my credit card (that I regularly pay bills for), I can enter quite a few lounges for free.

Singapore Changi Airport has a dozen of them. Additionally, some restaurants and even one spa participate in the program by offering their services as an alternative to your usual airport lounge visit.

Mee Soto and wine, at Ambassador Transit Lounge at Singapore Changi Airport's Terminal 2; photo by Ivan Kralj.
“Bon appetit”, I told to my phone as I left it to charge

I opted for something more standard – the Ambassador Transit Lounge on Terminal 2, conveniently located on the Mezzanine Level (Level 3) right next to the Sunflower Garden.

This Changi lounge offers a maximum 3-hour stay. When the receptionist figured out the length of my layover, he was quick to slap a sticker on me, to make sure I didn’t overstay. “Don’t worry, I have no time to stay here for 3 hours”, I said laughingly.

Unlike many other lounges, this one didn’t have a free-flowing bar. They gave me two vouchers for alcoholic drinks. I used only one, for a meh Shiraz.

I wouldn’t call the food offer spectacular either, but for a quick free snack, it was fine. From papadam to nacho chips, from spring rolls to donuts, the lounge was trying hard to provide a cosmopolitan gastronomic experience. Between spaghetti aglio olio, roasted chicken, and fried fish, probably the most interesting offering was the mee soto live station, where you could sample Singapore’s beloved chicken soup with noodles.

Due to renovations, half of the lounge was covered in plastic sheets and scaffolding. But I was already happy with the opportunity to lick some ice cream while my camera batteries recharge.

At the end of the stay, I hit the shower. Mid-airport refresh is always welcome.

A gym at the Ambassador Transit Lounge at Singapore Changi Airport's Terminal 2; photo by Ivan Kralj.
Ambassador Transit Lounge also has a gym, but lifting forks, spoons, and glasses is a more common workout here

Jewel Changi Airport Singapore – public zone

3:15 pm – Concierge and baggage storage

Another light tropical rain drizzled over the Skytrain windows as I glided back to Terminal 1, wondering if the Dreamscape sky in T2 got cloudier too. No time to check. I already canceled the primary idea of exploring all transit zones before Jewel. Time flew quickly, and I decided to revisit the T3 transit zone at night, when Jewel puts its attractions to sleep anyway.

While leaving Changi Airport T1 through the automatic passport-control system was swift and efficient, don’t forget to submit your Singapore Arrival Card before stepping out!

Officially in the country, I was just a short walk from Jewel, the most sparkling part of Changi’s airport necklace.

Smarte Carte, baggage storage facility at Jewel Changi Airport in Singapore; photo by Ivan Kralj.
Jewel’s baggage storage place, easy to spot

First, I got rid of my bag at the Baggage Storage (Level 1, near the Early Check-In Lounge). Keeping my cabin-sized bag for a day cost 11 Singaporean dollars (paid with a credit card).

Not far from the storage, I sorted out my tickets for the Canopy Park attractions at an unassuming Jewel Concierge Counter (this one could be marked better, so passers-by don’t confuse it with some lounge reception).

Concierge counter at Jewel Changi Airport in Singapore; photo by Ivan Kralj.
Concierge center – the background LCD constantly changes, so just look for black counters numbered 1 to 4 (lol)

If I hadn’t visited the Ambassador Transit Lounge, where I simultaneously fed myself and my phone and camera batteries, I would’ve probably had another stopover at Jewel. The Experience Concierge on Level 2 is a place where you can borrow a power bank for 12 hours, free of charge. Keeping your battery levels high on the go, as you click and click around Jewel – how thoughtful!

3:30 pm – Rain Vortex and Shiseido Forest Valley

With my hands free and shoulders light, I walked straight to the center of Singapore Changi Airport Jewel, a stunning glass-domed complex that houses the world’s tallest indoor waterfall. The Rain Vortex, sometimes referred to as HSBC Rain Vortex (sponsor alert!), starts operating at 11 am on regular days, and 10 am on weekends. Even waterfalls need a break, and Rain Vortex takes it at 10 pm.

Otherwise, the continuous pouring of water from the roof to the basement is hypnotic. The 40-meter tall thunderous spectacle (that’s 131 feet, if you prefer to walk on water, vertically) makes other airport attractions feel like mere drinking fountains. But the aquatic marvel is not just a pretty feature. As it falls down the funnel, the rainwater naturally cools the air and controls the climate inside. Later on, it is reused in the building.

Check out Jewel Rain Vortex in action in this short YouTube video!

 

Opened in 2019, the Rain Vortex was designed by Moshe Safdie, the Israeli architect who entered the Asian market in 2011, with the iconic triple-tower of Marina Bay Sands, featuring the largest infinity rooftop pool, as well as Rain Oculus, another skylight/waterfall at Marina Bay’s mall.

Surrounding Changi’s Vortex is the Shiseido Forest Valley, a multi-tiered indoor rainforest with 900 trees, 60,000 shrubs, and some of the freshest airport air you’ll ever breathe. The species in this impressive botanical garden range from Brazil to Australia.

The sponsor in the valley’s name provided its signature Ultimune scent for the western walking trail, making the hike uphill an experience for the nose too. If you’re more into soothing white noise experience, opt for the eastern trail’s waterfalls.

The recommended time for each trail is half an hour, but that’s very generous. Unless you are taking a gazillion of selfies, or stumbling upon the bodies of influencer-wannabes doing that. Luckily, there are several entry/exit points between Level 1 and Level 4, to leave the trail at your convenience.

If you are even more short with time, you can get your glimpse of Jewel without ever leaving the transit zone. The interterminal train, connecting T2 and T3, crosses through the Jewel, slowing down in the center of the building, just enough for a quick peek at the Forest Valley.

You don't have to pay anything to see the waterfall and the forest at Changi Airport. Basic access to Jewel Changi is free.

4:00 pm – Topiary Walk, Discovery Slides, Foggy Bowls, Petal Garden / Canopy Park

Hiking up the airport forest led me to a 14,000 sqm recreational wonderland perched on the top floor of Jewel – the Canopy Park. This garden sitting above the retail/entertainment hub is fused with playful experiences and attractions, offering everything from mist-filled playgrounds to sky-high nets.

Elephant fountain made of flowers with water spurting out of his trunk, a part of Topiary Walk at Canopy Park, Jewel Changi Airport in Singapore; photo by Ivan Kralj.
Elephant fountain made of flowers

A basic Canopy Park ticket (SGD 8, or a bit cheaper if you book online here) gets you access to the Topiary Walk, Discovery Slides, Foggy Bowls, and Petal Garden.

I wasn’t able to detect the last one. Even the rotating staff wasn’t sure where to find the display of the flowers, probably because it was covered by the temporary exhibit of Disney Cruise Line.

Topiary Walk made up for it. This nature-inspired pathway was lined with sculpted topiaries of orangutans, parrots, peacocks, bears, elephants, and other animals. Practically a zoo made of plants, a botanical safari. The vibrant floral displays are fun places for photo ops.

Discovery Slides, designed by Carve and Playpoint, had an exterior of a sleek, polished steel shell that reflected the surroundings in funhouse-like distortions. The top of the 7.5-meter-high structure doubled as a viewing deck, offering the highest vantage point over Jewel and panoramic views of the Rain Vortex. The yellow playscape had four slides for all thrill levels – an open family slide, two enclosed spiral slides, and a steep drop slide (out of operation during my visit, sparing some screams). It’s a great warm-up for the Canopy Park, turning even adults into kids.

An adult woman sliding down the yellow Discovery Slide with surprise on her face, at Canopy Park, Jewel Changi Airport in Singapore; photo by Ivan Kralj.
Ugh, lost that Mickey Mouse hat!

Foggy Bowls were essentially Canopy Park pits that should emit cool fog, providing the illusion of floating clouds. I’m not sure how frequently this interactive play space filled with artificial mist, but every time I passed by, it just looked like a waiting room.

A place called Foggy Bowls, with children and parents waiting for the green pits to be filled with mist, at Canopy Park, Jewel Changi Airport, Singapore; photo by Ivan Kralj.
Foggy Bowls – smoke and mirrors, or a real reward for the patient ones?

Canopy Park is open daily from 10 am to 9 pm (on weekends and public holidays, the working hours extend to 10 pm).

If you want to explore Canopy Park as well as the rest of Jewel with a guide, book an affordable 2.5-hour tour here.

4:30 pm – Walking Net / Canopy Park

Walking Net, a theme park attraction, 25 meters above the shopping center, at Canopy Park at Jewel Changi Airport in Singapore; photo by Ivan Kralj.
Would you dare to walk this way?

We’re not playing anymore, I thought to myself as I stepped on the Walking Net, a tightly woven rope bridge suspended 25 meters above the ground.

If you’re not too confident in your balance skills, or you have a fear of heights, maybe you could consider skipping this attraction. I’ve seen more than just kids calling for their mommy.

At some parts, the 50-meter-long net was passing over a five-story-high void, with escalators and shoppers getting small under your feet. It is suspenseful, knee-shaking, and heart-racing for some, and pure terror for others.

All participating net walkers needed to leave their bags and loose items (including selfie sticks!) at the free lockers near the entrance to the Bouncing Net. Good luck with figuring out how to close those little boxes – it’s almost a puzzle in itself!

Both sky nets are open from 10 am to 9 pm, for visitors taller than 110 cm. The standard adult rate for the Walking Net is SGD 18.90 (child rate 13.90), and it includes access to Canopy Park’s four basic attractions. You can save some of your dollars if you book your tickets through this link.

Pipeaway travel blogger Ivan Kralj taking a selfie while standing on the Walking Net, 25 meters above the shoppers at Jewel Changi Airport in Singapore; photo by Ivan Kralj.
Me losing hair and producing my very own kinetic rain of sweat dropping on the shoppers below

4:45 pm – Bouncing Net / Canopy Park

The neighboring Bouncing Net doesn’t get higher than 8 meters above ground, but it does come with the safety-instruction video you need to watch before entering the Walking Net’s rebellious sibling.

While jumping is encouraged on the trampoline-like attraction, somersaults are not permitted. But you can bounce, play with a ball, and generally spend some energy while racing through the 250-meter-long network of nets.

Children jumping on the Bouncing Net in Canopy Park, at Jewel Changi Airport in Singapore; photo by Ivan Kralj.
We are all just balls on the Bouncing Net

Even if I visited it alone, I had a blast on this adrenaline-packed and childhood-invoking activity. So I can imagine that a group visit with people you know can only upgrade the chaotic fun level. Refuse to grow up, and sweat it out!

The bouncier net is also the pricier one, though. A standard adult ticket costs SGD 24.90 (child 19.90), and it also includes the four basic Canopy Park attractions. Save some money when booking here.

5:05 pm – Mastercard Canopy Bridge

Another branded attraction, the Canopy Bridge is for those who want to be able to say that they got the closest to the Rain Vortex.

Suspended 23 meters above ground, the bridge had a glass-bottomed middle section. But if you checked the scare-o-meter, the Walking Net still beats it.

The cool feature was the fog produced at the entrance/exit parts of the Canopy Bridge. The mist effect came in intervals, so wait a little if you want a cinematic cloudy backdrop.

Pipeaway travel blogger Ivan Kralj taking a selfie at Mastercard Canopy Bridge at Jewel Changi Airport in Singapore, with the Rain Vortex and Shiseido Forest Valley in the background.
Dream up an adventure with your head in the clouds, literally

Was Canopy Bridge the best spot for Rain Vortex photos? Not really. The Skytrain tracks might photobomb your shot. But the real advantage? Fewer crowds. If you wanted an undisturbed, tourist-free photoshoot, this was your golden ticket. Some of us could even call it priceless, as the sponsor in the name would suggest.

Canopy Bridge entrance costs SGD 13.90 (child ticket 11.90), and again, it’s bundled with the four basic Canopy Park attractions. For cheaper Canopy Bridge tickets, look here.

5:20 pm – Hedge Maze / Canopy Park

In Changi’s world of superlatives, the Hedge Maze at Jewel is promoted as Singapore’s largest indoor hedge maze. But it should really hold the title “the easiest Escape Room ever”. If I could say that I wasted any of my time at Changi Airport, it’s those 4 minutes dedicated to “searching” for the exit.

The issue with Canopy Park’s Hedge Maze was that the limited space it’s been set up in didn’t allow many dead-ends or wrong turns. So basically, it was just a winding path in between the 500 trees. Only people who have truly poor orientation skills, which means those who start going back for no reason, would find the maze truly challenging. For everyone else, this was a true definition of “a walk in the park”. In some sections, the bushes were even so thin that you could see through to the other side.

Towards the end of the maze, you should find a circular staircase leading to a watchtower which provides an aerial view of your accomplishment. From up there, the layout looked much more dense and intricate than what it actually was on the eye level.

Mickey Mouse (Disney Cruise Line partnership) on the top of the Hedge Haze in the Canopy Park at Jewel Changi Airport in Singapore; photo by Ivan Kralj.
Mickey Mouse (current partnership with Disney Cruise Line) pointing the way to the exit – or is he navigating the plane in the corner?

The Hedge Maze closes at 9 pm, but the last entry is at 8:30. Because apparently, they believe it takes 30 minutes to complete a 4-minute challenge.

Anyway, if you do want to stretch your legs and not your brain capacity, prepare to pay SGD 13.90 for this attraction (SGD 11.90 for a child). Again, the ticket pairs with those basic Canopy Park offerings, so you’ll get some extra worth.

If you want to save some bucks, I found the cheapest tickets for the Hedge Maze here.

5:30 pm – Mirror Maze / Canopy Park

If you love labyrinths, the Mirror Maze is a much more intriguing attraction to invest in. You’ll almost want to stay longer in this kaleidoscopic neon-lit adventure adorned with greenery!

People having fun in the neon-lighted Mirror Maze, a part of the Canopy Park, theme park at the top level of Jewel Changi Airport in Singapore; photo by Ivan Kralj.
Everyone should allow themselves to have fun while feeling lost

The Mirror Maze will tease your brain and challenge your perception, practically turning you blind. Luckily, they hand you a foam stick, a pink guiding wand that should detect mirrors before you experience an embarrassing face-first collision with your own reflection.

The final room, which combined projections, sounds, and mirrors, was quite magical. Many people just rushed through it, but for the calming effect, stay there for a moment before heading back to the airport reality!

The standard rate for the Mirror Maze is SGD 18.90 for adults and 13.90 for children. As usual, on your way to the maze, you can freely explore the four basic Canopy Park attractions (Topiary Walk, Discovery Slides, Foggy Bowls, and Petal Garden – but beware, that fog and those petals might be harder to find than the maze exit!).

Those who want to buy extra souvenirs can find the cheapest Mirror Maze tickets here.

5:50 pm – Changi Experience Studio

Descending one level to L4, I entered Changi Experience Studio, a place offering a very informative and interactive journey through the world of Singapore Changi Airport. I thought one hour would be enough for these 3,000 sqm. In the end, I wished I could have stayed for another hour, and explored every little piece of information displayed at this high-tech, modern museum-style attraction.

Upon entering, I got a “blank leaflet”, a futuristic personal travel guide that interacts with 20 digital touchpoints throughout the studio. It’s a cutting-edge light technology where optical infrared markers on the travel guide enable the projection to follow it as we move it around, even taking into account the shifting of the position of the pages.

See these interactive Changi Experience Studio travel guides in action in this short YouTube video!

 

The first of its kind, the Changi Experience Studio educates through entertainment. Ten zones offer games, simulations, and immersive storytelling, all about aviation and Changi (well, that plus smiling competition, or Le Petit Chef’s dinner).

From learning about the airport’s history and development to understanding its behind-the-scenes operations, there was a ton of information for aviation geeks, curious travelers, and anyone who loves pressing buttons to see what happens.

I loved the gamification of learning at this place which easily seduces you to collect trolleys through the airport, dispatch taxi pick-ups, sort baggage, or even race against a plane – on a bicycle.

Amazing Runways is a multiplayer game that mimics the Changi Airport Race between a Porsche911 GT3 Carrera Cup car and a Boeing 747 aircraft, which was held back in 2009 - the simulation in which visitors power the vehicles by stationary bikes is set in Changi Experience Studio, at Jewel, Singapore; photo by Ivan Kralj.
Relive the 2009 Changi Airport race between a Porsche 911 GT3 Carrera Cup car and a Boeing 747 aircraft, and power the vehicles by pedaling the stationary bikes

Digital butterflies from the entrance returned for a grand finale in music & light spectacle of the Garden of Harmony.

Just before the exit, Singapore Airport revealed its vision of the future (as if what we’re seeing today is NOT futuristic enough). If any airport were to venture out beyond Earth’s atmosphere, it should truly be Changi’s Terminal 6.

Changi Experience Studio tickets cost SGD 25 for adults, and SGD 17 for children. It is open for play & learning from 11 am to 8 pm, or from 10 am on weekends and public holidays.

If you want to save several dollars per ticket, the cheapest online ticket for Changi Experience Studio is available here.

7:30 pm – Rain Vortex – Lights, Music & “Snow”

I reluctantly left Changi Experience Studio because the Rain Vortex’s night show was calling.

The Light & Music Showcase at the Rain Vortex in Jewel Changi Airport is a daily spectacle merging technology and world's largest indoor waterfall; photo by Ivan Kralj.
Light dancing on music

Every evening at 8 and 9 pm (extra showtimes on public holidays), the Light & Music Showcase sponsored by Trip.com takes place. At that moment, the waterfall that plays with natural sunlight throughout the day becomes a moving canvas for a choreography of dynamic lights and a synchronized soundtrack.

I watched the show-off from the top level of Jewel (I’d find better spots later on – check out the 9 pm section), mainly because I heard that they would “let it snow” at the Canopy Park, just after the Vortex show. I expected massive snow-producing machines to cover the airport in white, and I couldn’t spot the location where that sudden climate change would happen.

“Oh, it’s happening right now”, a staff member said when I asked. The snow was literally falling 10 meters away from me, and I still couldn’t see it.

The location was close to that escalator heading down under the Walking Net. A small snow-producing machine was pumping out snowflakes that were hard to spot if you weren’t actively looking for them. That also meant I almost had a personal snow show, which was totally fine.

Changi T3 – public zone

8:10 pm – Flora Inspiration  & Daisy

A quick walk from Jewel’s Level 3 or a Skytrain ride from Terminal 1’s Level 2 to Terminal 3’s Level 2 will bring you right next to the entrance of Crowne Plaza Changi Airport, an IHG hotel. Here, you’ll be greeted by the Flora Inspiration. Han Sai Por‘s sculptures resemble giant seed pods, as another tribute to Singapore as the Garden City.

Flora Inspiration, Han Sai Por’s sculptures depicting oversized seed pods at Singapore Changi Airport's Terminal 3; photo by Ivan Kralj.
Han Sai Por’s nod to the sprouting and flourishing of Singapore

But I loved, even more, the kinetic sculpture between the terminal entrances 4 and 5. Daisy, conveniently placed between two charging stations, is a 13-meter-tall flower-shaped propeller, painted in red and white, Singapore’s national colors.

Daisy, a 13-meter-tall artwork by Christian Moeller representing a propeller in the shape of a flower that interacts with travelers' movement; photo by Ivan Kralj.
Daisy is inspired by the journeys facilitated by Changi Airport and the Port of Singapore, as both planes and ships use propellers to move

As I observed this artwork by Christian Moeller, it was also looking back. I could walk left, and the flower would turn towards me. I’d go back, and it would follow me there as well. Daisy’s light sensors detected the presence of onlookers, allowing it to interact with them. Testing its limits was truly fun!

8:30 pm – Hello Kitty + Snow Show + Marching Drummer Boys      

My main reason for hopping over to the public zone of Changi Airport T3 at this very moment was the seasonal appearance of Hello Kitty and Sanrio friends like Pompompurin, Cinnamoroll, and Kuromi.

The iconic Japanese bow-wearing feline celebrated her 50th birthday and showed up in a version of an 8-meter-tall sculpture.

Eight-meter-tall sculpture of Hello Kitty with a snow show at Terminal 3 of Singapore Changi Airport; photo by Ivan Kralj.
In a flurry of snowflakes, even cartoons can come to life

When Mariah Carey‘s inevitable Christmas anthem spilled from the speakers, another snow forecast came true, sending kids (and adults) into festive squeals of delight.

Then the Marching Drummer Boys appeared (well, four boys, and one girl, I’d say), adding to the lively atmosphere.

There was much more to Hello Kitty’s Carnival at Changi. But, hey, you missed it, and you’ll just have to explore new surprises on your Singapore Airport visit!

Jewel at Changi – public zone

9:00 pm – Rain Vortex – Lights, Music & “Snow” – take two

I returned to Jewel for another edition of Trip.com’s Light & Music Showcase, this time seen from the ground level. It was a much better place to enjoy it. Even the snowfall scheduled at Shiseido Forest Valley after the show (technically, at one of the access points to the Vortex) felt richer and more noticeable. A unique opportunity to experience a touch of winter wonderland in tropical Singapore!

Artificial snow falling in the Shiseido Forest Valley after the Rain Vortex Light & Music Showcase, inside Jewel Changi Airport in Singapore; photo by Ivan Kralj.
Brief moment when the Rain Vortex almost seems to transform itself into a Snow Vortex. Well, maybe an idea for Terminal 5 😉

But for a less exploited spectacle of Jewel, head to the Basement 2 level, where you’ll find the base of the Vortex, an acrylic tank shifting colors, and providing moments your Instagram and TikTok audiences will love.

Hand touching the magenta-colored acrylic tank of the Rain Vortex waterfall in Jewel Changi Airport, Singapore; photo by Ivan Kralj.
Touch the inside of the waterfall!

Changi T2 – public zone

9:25 pm – The Wonderfall

Before returning to the transit zone, I decided to visit the three terminals’ yet-unseen public zone attractions. The Wonderfall was certainly not to be missed.

In the center of Changi Terminal 2’s check-in area, a digital waterfall became an iconic landmark. Made up of 892 LED tiles, some of which were curved, to enhance the cascading effect, the water rushes in front of our eyes, leaving us in awe of the grandeur.

If you pay attention, you might spot a kingfisher bird or butterflies (of course, what is Changi without butterflies!). But if you wait long enough, you’ll witness the 4-minute “Rhythms of Nature”, a light-and-sound show scheduled every half an hour.

Take a look at Changi Airport T2 Wonderfall in this YouTube short video!

 

9:35 pm – Flap Pix

Another artwork worth seeing at Changi T2 public zone is Flap Pix. Located near the link bridge toward Jewel Changi Airport (T2, Level 3), this art installation uses vintage technology of the airport departure board that once displayed flight and gate numbers, destinations, and departure times.

Flap Pix, a mechanical split-flap display board of flight information repurposed into artwork displaying passengers' portraits at Changi Airport Terminal 2, Singapore; photo by Ivan Kralj.
Take a selfie of the split-flap portrait of your selfie!

Now, the shifting 1,080 split-flaps transform into Singapore-themed scenes or personalized portraits. That’s right, the camera can take a photo of your face, and display it on the flipboard, as if you’re scheduled for the next departure.

Changi T3 – public zone

9:50 pm – ST3PS

Another direct Skytrain ride from T2 to T3 (with night views of the Rain Vortex), only to see the last attractions before they shut the light for the day.

In the Basement 2 area, ST3PS operates from 10 am to 10 pm. A stepped theater with a green wall features an ultra-high-definition screen (6 meters wide and 3.5 meters high). It’s a place to see free movies and live sports matches. The stage hosts performances on weekends and even yoga sessions on Thursdays and Fridays.

ST3PS cinema at Singapore Changi Airport's Terminal 3, screening "Pirates of the Caribbean"; photo by Ivan Kralj
Fly to fantasy worlds via the screen

When I passed by, “Pirates of the Caribbean” was on. For the exact movie schedule during your visit, look here. Every week has its own theme, ranging from animation and fantasy to music and dance.

9:55 pm – The Slide@T3 + Climb@T3

The Slide@T3, 12-meter-tall, world's tallest airport slide at Changi in Singapore; photo by Ivan Kralj.
Ready to race that elevator?

Another attraction that closes its operation at night (at 10:30 pm) is The Slide@T3, the world’s tallest airport slide, launched back in 2010.

The tubular slide, which stands at an impressive 12 meters, can take you down four floors, from Level 1 to Basement 3. For a milder experience, there’s also a smaller one-story slide, with the entrance at Basement 2.

At the Customer Service Counter at Basement 2, you can redeem 10 rides per day, as long as you have signed up for Changi Rewards e-Card. Registration is free.

Bonus Slide Tip: If you’re flying out of Changi Airport T4, there’s another, boarding pass-activated slide straight to H1-H8 gates. Now that’s how you make an entrance!
Climb@T3, a bouldering wall inside Singapore Changi Airport's Terminal 3; photo by Ivan Kralj.
Even if they are next to each other, it’s a shame you cannot climb the wall to get back to the Slide entrance

Right next to The Slide@T3, there is Climb@T3. Starting at the Basement 3 level, you can test your skills at an 8-meter-high bouldering wall. Whether you are a beginner or an experienced climber, there is a mix of challenging routes suitable for any level.

The Rock School Singapore operates this unique facility from 11 am to 8 pm, and on weekends and holidays until 9:30 pm. So make sure to come earlier than me. Or even better: book ahead!

If you prefer solid-ground entertainment, just across the Playground at the Basement 2 level, there is Changi Airport’s arcade game empire Zone X (normally closing at 10 pm, on weekends at 11 pm).

Changi T1 – public zone

10:20 pm – Arrival Garden + Kinetic Rain

After collecting my bag at Jewel’s luggage storage, I proceeded back to Changi Terminal 1. As I was prepared to head airside, I made a stopover at the Arrival Garden, which usually welcomes newcomers to Singapore.

At this hour, in the shade of the tall palms and other tropical flora, and just an occasional shimmer of Swarovski Crystal Clouds floating at Jewel’s entrance, some passengers were already snuggling in their makeshift beds for the night. It looked like outdoor camping, just indoors. With airport trolleys instead of tents.

Passengers sleeping on the floor of the Arrival Garden at Singapore Changi Airport, Terminal 1; photo by Ivan Kralj.
Layover in the jungle

The transit zones of Changi have free-to-use rest areas or so-called Snooze Lounges. You just have to get there early enough to claim your spot (first-come, first-served). I was lucky enough to get a proper bed in a Changi Airport hotel, mainly because I hadn’t sleep much in the previous days either. Otherwise, I’d probably spend the entire night watching movies at Terminal 3.

But before I checked in at my hotel inside Changi Airport, and checked Terminal 3’s transit offerings, I had to take a moment for myself. And there’s no better place to float away with than the Kinetic Rain, unveiled in 2012 as the largest moving sculpture in the world. The artwork is so mesmerizing, and yet so ignored by many passengers these days.

I can still recall the moment, ages ago, when I first saw it. Standing on the travelator, I was gliding up to the check-in area of Changi T1, while this hypnotizing moving sculpture locked my gaze.

Separated in two parts (each measuring 10 by 4 meters), the Kinetic Rain consists of 1,216 bronze droplets suspended from the ceiling, each controlled by computer-driven motors that create ever-changing patterns. The silent dance of the droplets forms fluid shapes that resemble waves, birds, an airplane, a hot-air balloon, or even a dragon. I could watch it all day long. Well, if my eyes wouldn’t already be half-closed.

Hypnotize yourself with the Kinetic Rain sculpture by watching this YouTube short!

 

Changi T3 – transit zone

11:00 pm – Birds in Flight

After quickly getting back inside Terminal 1, checking in at Aerotel, mainly to drop off my bag at this point, I hopped on the Skytrain to Terminal 3. It’s nice to know they operate all until 2 am, resuming at 5 am. In this small pocket of Skytrain sleep time, one would have to use travelators to navigate between the terminals.

Just at the exit of the Skytrain, the “Birds in Flight” stainless steel sculpture welcomed me back to Terminal 3. The art installation created by the Singaporean artist Baet Yok Kuan depicted the mid-flight of the Arctic terns, seabirds with lengthy annual migrations across the planet.

"Birds in Flight", stainless steel sculpture of Arctic terns, installed on the wall of Terminal 3 at Singapore Changi Airport; photo by Ivan Kralj.
Some counting birds, some counting sheep

A frozen image of the blue birds is a fitting metaphor for all of us congregating at the airport for a brief moment until we fly away to a new stop on our itinerary.

11:10 pm – Changi Airport Movie Theater

Besides ST3PS in the public zone of Terminal 3, there is an actual Changi Airport Movie Theater that operates 24/7, available only to passengers, in the transit zone of the same terminal.

I didn’t see any signs pointing at it, so I approached an unmanned information desk (well, I also did it just to see how it works).

The cardboard character with a comic-style speech bubble saying “Need help?” was pointing at the screen, offering a chat with Changi’s ambassadors. I chose the language (besides English, available options were Chinese, Malay, Tamil, and Korean), and the type of assistance (medical, lost & found, locating a facility), and just like in those customer service calls, I was informed I was the first one in the queue, and that the estimated waiting time was less than 30 seconds.

Iris, Changi Airport ambassador helping out a passenger at virtual information desk via a screen, Singapore Airport, Terminal 3; photo by Ivan Kralj.
Customer service without physical contact

After 10 seconds of elevator music, a lady named Iris appeared on the screen. I asked about the location of the cinema, and she pointed me to an escalator going up. Sensing my disorientation, she asked whether I saw the Guardian store on my right-hand side (“the orange-colored shop”), and explained I would find an escalator behind it going up, directly to the cinema.

It’s a quick, efficient, and economical system. This staff member is probably covering many information desks, instead of sitting on one, boring herself to death.

Airport trolleys parked in a cinema as passengers enjoy the film at Changi Airport Movie Theater, Terminal 3, Singapore Airport; photo by Ivan Kralj.The Changi Airport Movie Theater, located just next to the Ambassador Hotel Changi on Level 3, had about 50 comfy seats, and I’ve seen some visitors using them just for napping.

If you’re actually into movies, the repertoire rotates six titles every day. They could range from “Tom and Jerry” to “Spider-Man” and “Dune”.

Terminal 3’s free cinemas are truly a perk. No tickets, no queues – just walk in, grab a seat, and enjoy the film while waiting for the flight.

11:20 pm – Buterfly Garden

Right behind the Ambassador Transit Lounge was a Level-3 entrance to the Butterfly Garden, a two-story tropical sanctuary you won’t find at any other world airport.

Over 1,000 butterflies live in this serene oasis, from Common Rose (due to the red and white pattern on its wings, it was chosen as Singapore’s national butterfly in 2015) to Leopard Lacewing, Blue Clipper, and dozens of other species.

Flower-adorned feeding station in Butterfly Garden at Singapore Changi Airport, Terminal 3; photo by Ivan Kralj.
Flower power – they’ll feed on it when the sun rises

While this butterfly airport is much busier during the day, with colorful little aircraft landing on pineapple runways, it lives 24 hours a day, just like Changi.

During the day, butterflies are mostly active between 8 am and 5 pm, like all working class.

At nighttime, you have a rare opportunity to observe the caterpillar-to-butterfly metamorphosis up close, through a special emergence cage showcasing their life cycle.

Emergence cage in Butterfly Garden at Singapore Changi Airport, Terminal 3; photo by Ivan Kralj.
From pupa to butterfly in front of your eyes

Alternatively, you can put a detective hat on, and try to spot these fascinating creatures as they enjoy their beauty-sleep on the trees.

Butterfly Garden, with its calming water features and attractive nectar-producing plants, will easily make you forget you’re inside one of the world’s busiest airports.

11:40 pm – Koi Ponds + Crystal Garden

Koi fish sleeping in the corner of their pond, while a passenger is sleeping on the floor at Singapore Changi Airport, Terminal 3; photo by Ivan Kralj.
Like koi fish, passengers are also just looking a peaceful corner to sleep

Stepping out of the Butterfly Garden at Level 2, I arrived at Changi’s Koi Ponds, where these ornamental fish had already parked themselves in the corners, fast asleep.

Around the ponds, passengers who didn’t score a bed in the Snooze Lounge were sprawled on armchairs, or even on the carpeted floor.

At the Central Plaza, in front of the Louis Vuitton, even Crystal Garden dandelions, spheres made of hand-blown Bohemian glass, flickered softly, as if shutting down.

Most Singapore Changi Airport stores close their doors between 9 pm and 1 am, so even the shopping options became somewhat scarcer.

The entire airport was gradually switching to a lower speed, completely unconcerned by the New Year knocking at the door. Even I wasn’t sure when we entered it. There was no countdown, fireworks, or a spectacle of a sort. It’s an airport after all.

But not just any airport. Changi is an airport that lives spectacle every day of the year and didn’t need to show off around midnight, just to prove a point.

Changi T1 – transit zone

12:25 am – Aerotel Singapore Changi

I got back to my hibernation quarters – the Aerotel, Changi Airport transit hotel at Terminal 1.

Transit hotels have always been a mystery to me, as I never felt an urge to use them. But here, at Singapore Changi Airport, taking a break to relax from numerous attractions in a proper bed made perfect sense. Aerotel offers flexible hourly booking, which means you can just take a 6-hour nap, with no need to pay for an entire day!

Dark wood doors led to a long corridor with 32 rooms. The ambiance light was already suggesting this was a place where one should keep the noise level down, as someone could sleep at any time of day.

From a dimly lit hallway, my keycard led me into a room with spacious twin beds and a green-tiled bathroom with also quite roomy shower. It felt like a regular upscale hotel room, except for the fact that a narrow vertical window was opening to the runway.

A twin bedroom at Aerotel Transit Hotel at Singapore Changi Airport, Terminal 1; photo by Ivan Kralj.
The prices of rooms for two at Aerotel start from 163 euros for 6 hours to 349 euros for an entire day

I already admitted I was tempted to end the rest of my 24 hours at Changi by joining a movie marathon in the cinema. But after being awake for 22 hours now (my last encounter with a bed was in Davao, the Philippines), I thought it was equally important to report on the most passive of all airport activities – sleeping.

Before I hit that warm shower (getting wet at Changi for a third time in one day!), and those inviting bed sheets, I had to test Aerotel’s gastro offer.

On the room table, there was chamomile tea, and a selection of biscuits, dried fruits, and nuts, with the operation manager’s personalized hand-written message, wishing me a restful stay as I unwind with a soothing cup in my hand, and a crunchy snack in the other.

But I had something else on my mind. The Aerotel stay came with a complimentary meal, anytime. While the idea of ordering an all-day breakfast after midnight felt decadent enough to try, I didn’t feel ready for croissants and granola bowls yet. Among vegetarian, chicken, and fish options, I decided to go with the Indonesian staple rice dish – Nasi Goreng and Beef Satay.

Nasi Goreng and Beef Satay as served at Aerotel Transit Hotel at Singapore Changi Airport; photo by Ivan Kralj.
My first meal of 2025

I ordered it from the room and waited for it in an elegant restaurant space, empty except for me. Because who eats beef skewers with peanut gravy in the early hours of the New Year?! Despite the awkward timing, the chef personally brought a tasty dish to my table.

Filled and fulfilled, I was ready to go horizontal in this pleasant Singapore Changi Airport accommodation, surely the most luxurious way to wait for one’s boarding.

To find the best prices of stay for your dates, check out Aerotel's offer on Agoda, Booking, or Trip.   

6:00 am – SATS Premier Lounge Changi – breakfast

Credit card companies frown upon lounge hoppers. They expect you to consume just one lounge visit per airport stay, and not milk the system. Repeated use of these “entitlements” within a single airport may result in charges.

But as I was going through a 24-hour (!) stay at Changi, and now, after midnight, it was even a completely new fiscal year, I decided to push my luck and set my course toward another Changi Airport lounge – Terminal 1’s SATS Premier Lounge.

Also a 24-hour facility offering a maximum 3-hour stay, this time it came with fully available alcoholic beverages (tempting, but not at sunrise), and shower facilities (but did I really need a fourth scrub in 24 hours?).

Laksa as served at SATS Premier Lounge at Singapore Changi Airport, Terminal 1; photo by Ivan Kralj.
SATS version of laksa pays homage to Peranakans, with a rich creamy broth that Malays would describe as Lemak

The breakfast offered here was very Asian. While I found this fantastic (as who needs another scrambled egg start of a day?), it was sad that the staff didn’t really know much about the displayed food. Even basic questions – Is this sweet or savory? What goes with what? – were met with blank stares.

SATS Lounge Changi didn’t seem to offer the best representation of Asian cuisine in terms of quality either, but I liked the opportunity for a gastronomic journey, from make-your-own Nyonya-style Laksa to Malay Nasi Lemak and South Indian Medu Vada fritters with Sambar stew. I also tried a selection of non-spectacular cakes and pastries, but hey, you cannot win them all. My credit card better doesn’t charge me for this.

8:50 am – Leaving Singapore Changi Airport (or not?)

It was time to say goodbye to Singapore Changi Airport. I passed by Ng Eng Teng’s “Achievement” statue, wrapping up my personal round-the-clock achievement of the longest airport layover.

Five minutes before the flight was scheduled to depart for Phuket, Scoot was ready to board us.

But we didn’t depart. A young member of the crew hastily walked through our plane section, asking us “to unfasten the seatbelts because we are refilling”. Supposedly, this should help us evacuate immediately in case of emergency. I thought it was a strange instruction, but I assumed she was talking about getting more passengers on board. Later she remembered the word she was looking for was – petrol. We were refilling our tank.

I dozed off, and at 9:50 am, I woke up to passengers pulling their luggage from overhead bins. As I looked through the window, it was dark outside, adding to my confusion. Did I just oversleep an entire day?

A neighboring seatmate brought me back from my sleepy delirium, explaining these were smart windows with adjusted brightness, and telling me that the crew’s instruction was to disembark due to a “technical issue”. We were still at Changi?! Did I just wake up in “Groundhog Day”?

Scoot plane docked at Singapore Changi Airport, ready to depart; photo by Ivan Kralj.
Two and a half hours on this very spot, more than we would need to reach Phuket

Ten minutes later, we were asked not to disembark but to sit back, until the captain provided new instructions. And he made an announcement soon indeed, saying there would be a reassessment of the situation in 70 minutes (“seven-zero”, he clarified for the impatient ones), until the engineers decided whether some cargo issue was solvable or not. Until they connected to a ground AC, they would switch off the plane’s one. We were welcomed back to the tropics.

“If you need anything, ask the flight attendants”, the captain said. I asked for water, but the young attendant was confused. She wanted to say they had it, but she had to ask first. After a few minutes, she came back saying that I could refill my bottle in the galley, as they were trying to save cups.

Soon, the attendants brought some cardboard boxes, filled with comforting snack packs – an industrial croissant, potato crisps, and a miniature bottle of water. A male attendant distributed these, repeating the phrase “Happy New Year”, in an unsuccessful attempt to bring smiles to the faces of nervous passengers.

Our confused female attendant accidentally smacked a passenger’s head, so hard that she required ice.

In this slowly developing chaos, the “fasten seatbelt” sign switched on. “The engineers rectified the issue and we will be departing shortly”, the captain’s voice announced. The windows got daylight again, and the passenger close by had to take off his earphones. But nothing was happening, so he put them back and continued watching golf on his phone.

At 11:03, the windows went dark again. That wasn’t promising. The heat was still unbearable. Thank god for that safety information leaflet acting as a fan.

At 11:07, they called “all ground staff” to disembark.

After another cross-check, and a third announcement that we should now really turn off our mobile phones, at 11:16 the plane started taxiing.

At 11:34, we were finally taking off.

Of course, now I could tell you another story of how, in Phuket, the plane stopped in the middle of the airport, citing “traffic congestion”. But maybe that’s a story for another time.

This one was about my 24+ hours at Singapore Changi Airport, probably the most extraordinary airport in the world.

Overnight at Changi Airport – Conclusion

If you hate airports, this article may have been overkill.

Perhaps, you were just wondering how to spend 6, 8, or 10 hours at Changi Airport, and instead got trapped in this neverending chronicle of someone stuck in a twilight-zone loop, like an overexcited hamster on a spinning wheel.

Airports don’t always deserve our time. Wait, is that why they call it a “runway”? Because we’re all just trying to… run away?

In a heavy competition of bland institutions with a clinical feel, eager to charge us outrageous airport taxes, arrival/departure fees, and overpriced water that they still make us throw at the security check, there ARE exceptions.

While offering everything from prayer rooms to massage parlors, Changi excels in delivering unique content that merges nature, art, and entertainment

I deliberately broke my 5.5-hour flight into two parts, just so I could spend 25 hours at Singapore Changi Airport. Zero regrets. Changi was an airport where even time flew.

What I especially liked about this place is that it didn’t discriminate passengers by the depth of their wallet. Many of the best things to do at Singapore Changi Airport were also – free things to do at Singapore Changi Airport.

Even if you plan to spend, there is a product for everyone. In the food offer, you can find everything from KFC to Jamie Oliver, from McDonald’s to Tsuta‘s Michelin-starred ramen.

If you head shopping, Singapore Changi Airport will welcome you with UNIQLO and Zara, but also Gucci or BVLGARI.

They won’t roll their eyes even if you ask for a shopping concierge to help you pick your new Crocs. The personalized shopping assistance is complimentary and has no minimum spending expectations. Technically, you could pre-book your favorite 7-11 cup noodles, and get them delivered to your boarding gate. I guess.

But beyond just catering to various needs of travelers, offering everything from prayer rooms to massage parlors, Changi excels in delivering exceptional and unique content that merges nature, art, and entertainment. It skillfully expands Singapore’s definitions of gardens, from Gourmet Garden with playful bear slides to Dreamscape with virtual otters.

Whether you’re here on a layover like myself, or you intentionally missed your flight just to stay at Changi Airport longer (hey, no judgment!), this place will deliver an experience like no other, proving that airports can be as inspiring as art galleries, without the snobbery that often comes with curation.

What do you think about these things to do at Singapore Changi Airport? Enough to keep you entertained for 24 hours? Would you consider staying at Jewel overnight?
Leave your comment below, and pin the article for later!

Singapore Changi Airport received more than 500 awards for being the "best airport in the world". I decided to spend 24 hours at Changi to discover what is the secret behind the fame of its terminals and the newest addition - Jewel. Read on to experience Singapore Changi Airport overnight!

Disclosure: My stay at Aerotel, including the use of the swimming pool, as well as my entrance to Jewel Canopy Park attractions and Changi Experience Studio were complimentary, but all opinions are my own.

Also, this post may contain affiliate links, meaning if you click on them and make a purchase, Pipeaway may make a small commission, at no additional cost to you. Thank you for supporting our work!

The authors of all photographs are typically mentioned in image titles and Alt Text descriptions. In order of appearance, these are:

Ivan Kralj - all photographs except for
Photo no. 5 - Canopy Bridge - SaMaN on Unsplash
Photo no. 6 - Skytrain - Nathaniel Yeo on Unsplash
Photo no. 13 - T-Rex - copyright Changi Airport

The post Airport Jewel Overnight: Best Things to Do at Singapore Changi Airport in 24 Hours appeared first on Pipeaway.

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2024 Year in Review: Chasing Miles, Living the Journey https://www.pipeaway.com/2024-year-review/ https://www.pipeaway.com/2024-year-review/#respond Mon, 20 Jan 2025 14:02:54 +0000 https://www.pipeaway.com/?p=13298 Where did we go? What did we read? How did Google mess us up? And who tried to remove our articles? This is Pipeaway's 2024 year in review!

The post 2024 Year in Review: Chasing Miles, Living the Journey appeared first on Pipeaway.

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When January pushes December off the calendar cliff, you know that cerebration should replace celebration. A good start to a new year always involves bidding a proper farewell to the old one. Thanks to the exceptional Hotel Jama’s Secret Rooms, my annual overview lost its traditional spotlight as the year’s first article. But that doesn’t mean that I deprioritized open reflection. Keeping secrets might have been UDBA’s hotel standard. Still, here, at least for avid readers and the travel blogging community, the 2024 year review should be the most transparent and best-informed dive into Pipeaway’s universe.

In October, Pipeaway was accepted into the Journey ad program by Mediavine. Already in the first month, the payout was 20 times larger than Google’s

After 2023, which brought relative successes to this website despite Google’s autumn algorithm ambush, 2024 didn’t quite deliver the recovery I’d hoped for. The year ended with traffic at just 43% of the previous year, with notable nosedives during April-June, and another plunge in August-September (both months having barely a third of March traffic, for instance).

Of course, it didn’t help that I stopped publishing new content from June to August. Seasonal hotel work stepped in as the breadwinner, while the blog took an involuntary summer break.

The good news is that, in October, Pipeaway was accepted into the Journey ad program by Mediavine. Already in the first month, the payout from Journey ads was 20 times larger than what stingy Google Ads were bringing, and that’s a huge difference.

Also in October, a certain amount of traffic recovery started happening, hopefully announcing brighter days behind the horizon.

We’ve already passed the horizon into 2025, so let’s not delay with looking back – here’s Pipeaway’s review of the year 2024!

IF YOU’RE INTERESTED IN PREVIOUS YEAR REPORTS, YOU CAN FIND THEM RIGHT HERE:

2023 YEAR IN REVIEW: IS EVERYTHING IN OUR HANDS?

2022 YEAR IN REVIEW: READY FOR RESTART

2021 YEAR IN REVIEW: GOODBYE TO A TRAVEL BLOB

2020 YEAR IN REVIEW: OVERTOURISM AS A DISTANT MEMORY

2019 YEAR IN REVIEW: DOES EXPLORING THE WORLD IN CRISIS MAKE ANY SENSE?

2018 YEAR IN REVIEW: HIKING MOUNTAINS, VOLCANOES AND CHURCHES

2017 YEAR IN REVIEW: 3 CONTINENTS, 14 COUNTRIES AND ONE BIG ADVENTURE

Highlights of Pipeaway’s 2024 – from alien PR to Virgin Lions

While we’ve explored some classic contenders for idyllic holidays (be it a south of France vacation or even day trips from Southampton), there’s no mapping the extraordinary without leaving the beaten path.

The year kicked off with some quirky tourism PR campaigns, starring horses, and even aliens, and proving that thinking outside the box can present travel as both fun and memorable.

But if you’re looking for a truly entertaining read, nothing can beat hilarious travel experiences gathered in our collection of destination mix-ups. Geography, as it turns out, is not everyone’s forte. And no, Australia is not named after Austria!

Smiling Journey Castillo resting on a beach chair at the Virgin Islands National Park, her favorite of all national parks she visited as a child, before the age of 3.
Journey Castillo (3), enjoying her holidays on Virgin Lions

But the Virgin Islands are Virgin Lions, if you ask Journey Castillo, a pint-sized traveler who’s less than half the age of this website. She started her travels at just two weeks old and, by the age of three, she had already visited all 63 U.S. national parks! Journey was the youngest extraordinary traveler I’ve had the privilege of interviewing, 27 times younger, in fact, than those TikTok Traveling Grannies, still on the road.

If you want to meet more fascinating people, read the inspiring story of Shannon Coggins and her slow-travel family. They left their UK home, to attend a wedding in Australia, with the idea of never taking a flight.

Speaking of planes, if you do fly, don’t forget the importance of aircraft seat belts. And if you travel by ferry, buckle up your rabbit too!

Lost luggage scam – the article they tried to hide

For me personally, one of the most significant articles published on Pipeaway in 2024 was the one on the murky world of lost luggage sales. This elaborate scam thrives on fake Facebook pages promising unclaimed baggage from airports at ridiculously low prices. In the shadows, scammers steal people’s personal information, and money.

The article clearly poked a very active hornet’s nest. In October, a certain someone from Denmark (identity now redacted, as I wasn’t smart enough to screenshot it immediately) filed a bogus DMCA claim. It came through Tolas LLC, a Texas-based company with 10,000 active complaints to Google and counting.

Fake DMCA complaint someone filed against Pipeaway, so that the investigative article on lost luggage scam would not be visible on Google search results; screenshot.
Screenshot of DMCA complaint from Lumen database

According to them, my article about purchasing lost suitcases somehow infringed upon the copyright of an article about a serial rapist case. Despite the lack of any resemblance, the DMCA complaint was enough to temporarily banish Pipeaway’s piece from Google Search. It took me an entire month to reach Google and reinstate the article in search results so that it could keep travelers informed and scammers on edge.

Goodbyes and Hi’s of 2024

Septembers on Pipeaway now start to seem to be reserved for delayed farewells. Just like in 2023, when I wrote about the spring departure of a fellow traveler Fathin Naufal, the past September, I published an article inspired by the brief encounters with another departed creative spirit – Angela Laurier. More than just an “in memoriam” for a renowned contortionist (or less than it?), the post was my reflection on the pressures of performing and the importance of prioritizing mental health.

As Pipeaway turned seven in March, I unburied dangerous travel situations, some of which brought me quite close to that thin border the unlucky ones crossed. From rather benign, burning my soles in the Vietnamese desert, to fracturing ribs in a Finnish bathtub, and even a breathless scuba diving scare in Greece, I uncovered my personal heart-pounding and scarring travel moments.

Illustration for seven dangers of travel shared on the occasion of seventh birthday of Pipeaway travel blog; image by Ivan Kralj / Dall-e.
Seven slippery years of Pipeaway

But besides the personal section of the website, I started leaning into more subjective storytelling through the Pipeaway newsletter, especially since October, after a three-month silence made me rethink all of it. While I still believe the old newsletter format had much more to give, I wanted to be realistic, and, instead of curating others’ content week by week, on a level that I wanted to do it, I decided I had to put a pause on that system and focus on updates tied to my travels and stories freshly published on Pipeaway.

From “hi from frosty Zagreb” to “hi from Davao”, I greeted you with the “weekly” newsletter 38 times last year (the number was affected by the break between July’s goodbye and October’s hi-comeback).

The newsletter gained 89 new subscribers in 2024 (a 27.1% increase from the previous year), bringing the total subscriber count from 477 to 499 (4.6% growth). The final number reflects two simultaneous processes – some subscribers leave the service, while others are trimmed for inactivity (not opening the newsletter for months). I try to continue publishing it for real, engaged users, and not pump up misleading statistics.

Currently, Pipeaway’s newsletters’ open rate is 29.9% (the industry average, according to MailChimp, is 29.1%). There’s room for improvement in the click rate (1% vs. the peers’ 3.5%) and unsubscribe rate (currently, 0.51%, compared to peers’ 0.22%).

2024 Favorites

Favorite country of 2024 – Thailand

In 2024, I spent a total of 134 days abroad, wandering through Switzerland, Spain, Slovenia, Singapore, and – not only for the sake of alphabetic diversity – Italy, Hungary, Greece, Thailand, and the Philippines.

Add to that 88 days of summer, when I lived in coastal Croatia (splitting time between Ugljan and Bale), and worked as a seasonal worker in two luxury hotels.

That means I spent 222 nights “somewhere else”, and only 144 in my hometown. Well, what is home, anyway? For the first time ever, it seems I don’t have one. In Zagreb, now I only rent a storage unit for my belongings.

My favorite country from 2024 travels has to be the one where I had to pay a visa overstay fine – Thailand.

A young long-tailed macaque on a pole, with a surprised facial expression, in Lobpburi, Thailand's Monkey City; photo by Ivan Kralj.
A surprised monkey in Lopburi

In two months and those misfortunate extra two days, I visited quite a few unforgettable festivals in this Southeast Asian country. I was counting Phuket Vegetarian Festival scars at Naka Shrine, and other local Chinese temples that I’ve yet to write about.

At the Lopburi Monkey Festival, I attended a banquet for long-tailed macaques, while in Surin, I followed an elephant parade, which became the most-watched video in my newly launched Pipeaway Walks series. If you want to stroll through more of Thailand, you can visit everything from One Nimman Night Market to Ban Nam Khem Memorial Park for the Khao Lak tsunami.

As I am spending January in Thailand too, you can expect even more content from this country throughout 2025.

Favorite city of 2024 – Singapore

The title of my favorite city in 2024 goes to Singapore – a city, a state, and a layover paradise all rolled into one. Fittingly, I rang in the New Year there, but not where you might expect. While others celebrated under Marina Bay Sands’ iconic skyline, I was at Changi Airport!

Travel blogger Ivan Kralj standing on the Mastercard Canopy Bridge in Jewel, Changi Airport, with the world's largest indoor waterfall in the background; photo by Ivan Kralj.
Posing at Mastercard Canopy Bridge, the closest point to Jewel’s famous indoor waterfall

That’s right, on the longest night of the year, I endured my personal longest layover ever: 24 hours at the airport consistently ranking as the best in the world.

I love Singapore in general, but this jewel of an airport is not just a transit hub. It’s a destination in itself, with attractions that could put many actual cities to shame. From lush indoor gardens to entertainment zones, this is the airport where the word “layover” feels like an adventure rather than an inconvenience.

A full report on my day exploring this aviation utopia is coming up, so stay tuned!

Favorite accommodation of 2024 – Elvira’s Homestay

For my accommodation pick of the year, I wanted to put a spotlight on a humble yet heartwarming spot: Elvira’s Homestay on the island of Panglao in the Philippines.

Aerial view of bungalows at Elvira's Homestay, surrounded by greenery, at Panglao Island, the Philippines; photo by Ivan Kralj.
At Elvira’s Homestay, you can spend your days surrounded by a beautiful tropical garden

There’s something undeniably restorative about finding genuine warmth in the hospitality of locals, especially when they treat you like family. I wrote about how travel can connect us with new tribes in the 147th edition of the newsletter.

In 2024, I found some unexpected kindness among the Wizz Air plane seats too. Read on to find out how a young passenger and two flight attendants went above and beyond to assist a fellow traveler.

In a world that often feels hurried and disconnected, these pockets of kindness and generosity deserve celebration. To Elvira, and everyone who offers a helping hand – take a bow.

Favorite food experience of 2024 – Vegetarian food in Phuket

As the day of lovers is approaching, you may be interested to consult Pipeaway’s guide through Valentine’s food gifts.

My precious, chocolate, has been a sour topic in 2024, as the world witnessed cocoa prices skyrocketing. I hope my AI-generated creations were a better experience than the catastrophe that was Willy’s Chocolate Experience in Glasgow, an event organized by the House of Illuminati. They promised a magical Willy Wonka-like wonderland but delivered a disastrous nightmare instead.

Vegetarian Pad Thai as served at 1000009 Thai Noodle restaurant in Phuket, Thailand; photo by Ivan Kralj.
Pad Thai, a classic

However, my dearest gastronomic experience of 2024 has to be vegetarian food in Phuket, home to Thailand’s vibrant Jae Festival, a nine-day Taoist celebration where the entire town takes meat off the menu.

Pipeaway’s top articles of 2024

Pipeaway’s stories that resonated the most with readers in 2024 were diving deeper into movies, images, and music that made us think. These were the blog posts that captivated our audience this year:

Society of the Snow, a group of Uruguayan rugby players, survivors of a 1972 plane crash in snow-covered Andes, Netflix movie (2023).1. Society of the Snow Survivor Lessons: How Did They Survive?

Pipeaway’s most-read article published in 2024 covered the harrowing true story of the 1972 Andes plane crash, which inspired the Netflix film “Society of the Snow”. It recounted how 16 out of 45 passengers endured 72 brutal days in freezing mountains, relying on extreme survival tactics. There are some priceless lessons here, even if we hope never to need them!

Villa Iceberg, a modern villa on a floating iceberg, equipped with a swimming pool and sundeck chairs, concept design by Maria Dudkina, @sunt_mrr, created with AI Midjourney; one of the AI Facebook images that have been causing quite a stir on the social media network.2. AI Fools: You Know These Facebook Pictures Aren’t Real, Right?

In the second place of 2024 articles that grabbed most attention was the one that tackled the rise of AI-generated images on Facebook, and how they are increasingly confusing users, or even fooling them into believing they’re looking at real photos. Image generators have become a solid partner in crime, so you have to double up your vigilance when clicking on that thumb-up. Otherwise, you might be exposing yourself to fraud and deception.

Nemo in a pink tutu, representing the winner of the Eurovision Song Contest 2024, surrounded by golden starfish representing the European flag, and sharks in the background - Europe, not united by music; AI image by Ivan Kralj / Dall-e/Adobe3. Divided by Music: Eurovision, From Euphoria to EU-phobia

This article discussed the 2024 Eurovision Song Contest, which highlighted the divisions on the continent. The event, held in Malmö, Sweden, was marked by controversies, including protests, bans, and disqualifications. The slogan “United by Music” seemed ironic as political and social issues dominated the competition.

Pipeaway’s Facebook posts connected with the Eurosong went viral, with this one reaching 765 thousand users, and gaining 13.9k likes, 501 shares, and 383 comments.

Pipeaway’s timeless hits

Among the oldies but goldies, Greek nudism articles from 2021 and 2022 made a triumphant return to the top, reshuffling the rankings. These are the readers’ favorites among Pipeaway’s classics in 2024:

1. Clothing-Optional Resorts in Greece for Your Best Naturist Holidays

2. Top 5 Jjimjilbangs in Seoul

3. 7 Best Nude Beaches in Greece’s Cyclades Islands: Naked and Unafraid

4. Fat People on Planes: How to Survive Flying While Fat

5. Selecting a Plane Seat: 5 Reasons Why Last Row Should be First Choice

Social media in 2024

While organic search (68.3%) and direct visits (14.4%) continue to be the primary sources of traffic for Pipeaway, we saw a slight drop in their percentages in 2024. However, a notable shift occurred in the organic social channel, which grew substantially from 3.3% in 2023 to 13.8% in 2024. Diversifying traffic sources has proven to be a smart survival strategy.

Among social media platforms, Pinterest led the charge, bringing in 81.1% of Pipeaway’s social traffic, up from 61.4% in 2023. Pipeaway’s Pinterest account now boasts 1,024 followers (a 19.3% yearly growth) and 141k monthly viewers, which is 2.5 times more than the previous year. In total, Pipeaway’s pins were shown 1.7 million times, with 94.6k interactions. One of the top-performing pins is related to the article on how to become a pilot.

Pipeaway's Pinteret board
Pipeaway’s Pinterest board. An Indian female (18-24) on Android phone replaced an American male (25-34) on an iPhone, as an average user

Facebook follows Pinterest, now accounting for 13.6 % of social media traffic. The number of followers on Pipeaway’s Facebook page grew to 12,201, with 474 net follows (a staggering 4.6k% increase). Largely fueled by those viral posts, Facebook reach has grown by 2.8k%, to a total of 1,030,949. Content interactions also grew by 1.4k%, totaling 23.3k.

Ex-Twitter continued showing a decline in relevance and now contributes only 1.7% of social media traffic. The Pipeaway Twitter account currently has 1,413 followers (up 16 from 2023). At the end of December, I started Pipeaway’s Bluesky social account, which currently has 10 followers.

Instagram’s contribution to social media traffic has become minimal, dropping from 2.7% to just 0.7%. Pipeaway’s Instagram followers base decreased by an additional 4% last year, now at 5,366. But despite fewer followers, Instagram’s reach was 20,065 (33.1% yearly growth), and there were 899 content interactions (100% growth).

In fifth place, this time we have Flipboard. It brought in just 0.6% of all social media traffic. As it only uses automatic postings, I don’t engage much on this platform, making it a passive traffic source. Pipeaway’s Flipboard profile has only 17 followers.

On the other hand, Pipeaway’s YouTube channel had 20.1k views in 2024, 66% less than the year before. Viewers spent a total of 521 hours watching videos. The subscriber count grew by 10.1%, from 248 to 275. The most-watched video was a quick peek into the world of Khanom A Pong, a Michelin-recommended street food stall in Phuket (6,626 views).

Beyond Pinterest, which brings the majority of social traffic without me even being engaged on it much (I should really focus more on that!), other platforms seem to serve more as branding tools than substantial traffic drivers. Despite regularly posting across these channels, I’ve started to realize that platforms like Pinterest, which provide more passive value, might deserve more of my attention. Meanwhile, networks that demote links seem to be draining valuable social media energy, making me reflect on how I spend my time on them.

Press highlights of 2024 – from USA Today to The Sun

As of January 2025, 1,497 domains are referring back to Pipeaway. That’s 200 more than the same time a year before.

Screenshot of USA Today's article titled "Why some travelers are skipping the US: 'You guys are not afraid of this?'", with the photograph of Ivan Kralj from Pipeaway.com
The article on USA Today

Among the strongest links obtained in 2024 was certainly a feature in USA Today, where I was interviewed by Kathleen Wong about the impact of gun violence fears on a decline in travel to the United States.

For both their printed and online issues, Daily Mail licensed my AI images of fat people on planes to illustrate a write-up stemming from Finnair’s travel policy of weight.

Speaking of images generated by artificial intelligence, the fact-checker Snopes linked to our report on AI Facebook pictures when they debunked the image of the Scottish railway line on the mountainside.

My article on DND signs in hotels caught the attention of The Sun which linked to it from their own article. There were other media also republishing this story.

Beyond just scamming mafia, Pipeaway’s piece on lost luggage scam reached Slovenia, where the country’s oldest news portal Siol.net linked to it in their own investigative report. Even companies specialized in cybersecurity, such as Guardio, sent some backlink juice toward Pipeaway’s original piece of content.

Not exactly a backlink (because, well, Intagram!), but a mention worth mentioning in 2024 was artist Azi’s illustration featuring the last northern white rhino and its caretaker, inspired by our interview with Slovenian photographer Matjaž Krivic.

Despite our growing media mentions, Google demoted Pipeaway’s rankings for many keywords, and our once-growing domain authority fell from 39 to 31 (MOZ). According to Similarweb, our global rank in December 2024 was #1,452,413.

Thank you to my global support system

In 2024, hotels, hostels, boats, airports, and even massage schools generously partnered up with me, enabling many experiences that wouldn’t be possible without them.

While I always acknowledge these partnerships in the articles themselves, the support of people who help me behind the scenes and without fanfare remains somewhat in the shadow.

So I am especially grateful for the continuous backing from my friendly hosts around the world, namely Mladen in Sion, Nikos in Lanzarote and Kythira, both Christos in Athens, Corrado in Trieste, Kris in Khao Lak and Phuket, Kong in Bangkok, Mark and Ryan in Manila, and Dan in El Nido.

Thank you for making my travels smoother, my stays more enjoyable, and my adventures more meaningful! Thank you for being there for me!

Miles to go – Where’s my next destination?

I always feel predicting one’s whereabouts is ungrateful, as life is known for throwing unexpected curveballs.

But since I am already on the move, at least I know some parts of my 2025 itinerary. After spending January in Thailand, I plan to cross over to Malaysia in February, catching another edition of Thaipusam, this time on the island of Penang.

From Kuala Lumpur, I’ll swing by Italy on my way back to Croatia. After handling some car registration matters (I’d prefer to sell it – anyone interested?), I might take to the road or even the skies before summer hits Europe.

You see, I had to change some of my current Asian plans because flights I counted purchasing with miles turned out to be no longer available. So I ended up reaching into my wallet instead. But this means that I still have over 50,000 miles that will expire next summer. And I better use them.

Looking at the mileage bargains, it seems I could easily snag a return flight to destinations like Seoul, Delhi, or Johannesburg. Or should I head back to China? Canada?

Do I need to post a shirtless selfie in one of those ridiculous travel buddy Facebook groups?

Hmm, I kind of feel I’ve been mentioning a return to South Korea too many times, so maybe I indeed end up grabbing that Seoul ticket for zero dollars.

Come summer, I’ll likely be in or around Croatia, doing seasonal work I love to hate (at least it comes with accommodation). Remember, I have no bed anymore! So probably it will be a European hard-working summer (which hopefully won’t affect the blog as much as last year did).

I’d love to catch up with friends in Ireland, Greece, and Switzerland. And then, maybe autumn brings me to countries I frequently mention in this section of the review, and yet, I don’t end up visiting them. Right now, I’m thinking of Maldives, Sri Lanka, or perhaps a return to Japan

What do you think? Got any suggestions? Or do I need to post a shirtless selfie in one of those ridiculous travel buddy Facebook groups filled with scams and… odd proposals? 🙂

Feel free to share your plans and travel resolutions!

Also, hey, just a random thought: if I were to organize a group trip to any of the countries, would you be interested in joining? Let me know where you’d like to go!

Wherever you are, stay safe!

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Pipeaway's annual review is out! Check out which destinations marked our 2024 itinerary, and what were the most popular articles published on this travel website!

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🚤 Leonardo Di Carpe Diem – Pipeaway Newsletter #150 https://www.pipeaway.com/newsletter-150/ https://www.pipeaway.com/newsletter-150/#respond Mon, 13 Jan 2025 19:34:04 +0000 https://www.pipeaway.com/?p=13319 Pipeaway Newsletter #150: All we have is today. Maya Bay, sharing the name with that jungle-hidden lost civilization, reminds us that tomorrow should not be taken for granted.

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Hi from Phi Phi Islands!

If that doesn’t ring a bell, it is the place where “The Beach”, a 2000 adventure drama with Leonardo DiCaprio was filmed.

Even today, Phi Phi is filled with backpackers arriving to experience something real in a world surrounded by sharks, cannabis, and free love.

Maya Bay, which had to be closed for recovery from overtourism for four years, is the main point of attraction, drawing hundreds of boat tours to Phi Phi Lee.

Even in Danny Boyle’s movie, which pretended the bay was entirely encircled by high cliffs, making it a truly hidden paradise, locals did not like the uncontrolled influx of tourists to their island.

But today, as soon as you arrive from Phuket or Krabi by ferry, those cinematic locals are nowhere to be found. Everything is on sale, from tours to bodies, as if you have entered some crazy market where you only need to agree on the price.

Mostly symbolically limiting numbers of visitors allowed to step on one of the softest sands in the world, Phi Phi still heavily exploits tourism, as if there’s no tomorrow.

And maybe there isn’t. Maybe carpe diem is the only mantra that makes sense in a world falling apart. But what would you spend all that money on when the last hour arrives?

It’s amusing to fantasize about the hidden world utopias. From Hotel Jama’s Secret Rooms to Thailand’s Secret Beach, we believe we can keep things under control, and that is rarely the case.

I still struggle with a swollen throat and running nose but decided to let go, finding solace in the silence of the undersea, among the littlest fishes and sharks.

For me, there’s still a lot of text to write, but also a lot of sea to see. Traveling is sometimes the worst enemy of travel blogging. With beaches that can hardly stay secret for long, we all have DiCaprio’s Richard inside, backpacking the world to feel alive.

Have the most out of your week – carpe hebdomadam!

Ivan Kralj        
Pipeaway.com


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🤫 Can You Keep a Secret? – Pipeaway Newsletter #149 https://www.pipeaway.com/newsletter-149/ https://www.pipeaway.com/newsletter-149/#respond Mon, 06 Jan 2025 16:00:36 +0000 https://www.pipeaway.com/?p=13295 Pipeaway Newsletter #149: From abandoned underground rooms to airport rooftop swimming pools, some secrets just beg to be shared.

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Hi from Phuket!

Indeed, I am back at the place where I started my Southeast Asian adventure in October. I caught some virus along the way, so my first week of 2025 has been marked by sore throat, headaches, and exhaustion.

Before I continue with island-hopping through Southern Thailand, I decided to recover first in Phuket Town, testing a few more hostel offers while here.

Despite struggling with constant coughs, I used the downtime to finish an article on a Slovenian hotel I visited just before my Asian trip.

Hotel Jama in Postojna is a very special place. Here, besides your private guest room, you can also spend some time in the so-called Secret Rooms, a spy center of the former communist regime that was found during the hotel renovation. What an exciting tour to engage in!

I love discovering such hidden treasures. Just before arriving in Thailand, I spent an entire day at Singapore’s Changi Airport. For the first time, I stayed in a transit hotel. Having a room with a planespotting capacity was fantastic! Being able to check in immediately after landing, and also at a high-quality hotel such as Aerotel Singapore, was a true privilege.

But the hotel’s feature that fascinated me the most was the swimming pool at the airport’s rooftop, the only such place in the world! What a delight it was to be able to take a refreshing dip between the two flights.

The 24 hours passed by more quickly than one would imagine. Besides just swimming at Terminal 1, I walked, bounced, bicycled, hiked, slid, was mazed, and amazed at other terminals too, including Jewel, the central part of Changi’s airport necklace. It was a cool little project, with numerous adventures that deserve more space than we have here.

Running from one exciting thing to another also exhausted me. I felt like a kid in a candy store. At the world’s best airport, which excels in providing interactive experiences with nature, art, and entertainment, I’ve seen everything from tropical sun to kinetic rain and artificial snow.

And as soon as I stepped on Thai soil, my immune system fell apart.

But leaving Singapore didn’t go smoothly either. After 24 hours inside the airport, I spent an additional 2,5 hours parked on the runway.

Scoot is an airline infamous for not departing on time, but in Singapore, we were trapped in a Boeing 787, with a technical issue that was never clearly explained. Just three days after that South Korean plane crash, being in another problematic Boeing was a stressful affair. Googling ‘Society of the Snow survivors’ now?

Only fatigue, I guess, prevented me from worrying too much. I even overslept the disembarking call. An hour after our scheduled departure time, I woke up in my seat, seeing everyone up, supposedly preparing to deboard the plane that I thought was already flying. In the end, instead of letting us out, they decided engineers would reassess the situation “in 70 minutes”, gave us some water and snacks, and hoped for the best.

In the end, we arrived in Thailand later than planned, but safe, sound, and in one piece. Only my head wanted to split in two.

Hopefully, I’ll recover completely soon, and continue exploring more of this extraordinary world. This time, on boats.

Have a headache-less week!

Ivan Kralj        
Pipeaway.com


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Hotel Jama Postojna Review: Secret Rooms, Hidden Charms https://www.pipeaway.com/hotel-jama-postojna-review-secret-rooms/ https://www.pipeaway.com/hotel-jama-postojna-review-secret-rooms/#respond Sun, 05 Jan 2025 13:40:11 +0000 https://www.pipeaway.com/?p=13217 The famous cave is not the only underground attraction of Postojna. For decades, a hidden spy complex operated under Hotel Jama. Now, you can visit these Secret Rooms!

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Do you ever enter a hotel, and then have trouble finding the room they assigned to you? Hotel corridors can sometimes resemble a maze, and navigational numbers signposted on walls can be not helpful. Walking through Hotel Jama in Postojna, Slovenia, I couldn’t shake the feeling that some rooms were… missing.

Sure, odd numbers on one side, even on the other – a perfectly logical setup. Yet, something still seemed off. Since this was not my first visit (I had already dropped by when I explored the jaw-dropping Predjama Castle nearby), I knew Hotel Jama had “Secret Rooms”. But still, the room number layout in this iconic Slovenian hotel was playing games with my mind.

Hotel Jama, at the entrance of the equally enigmatic Postojna Cave, seemed like it wanted me to play a game

“Do you miss some room numbers?”, I asked at the front desk, thinking that surely there had to be some explanation for it, such as “Yes, we avoid the unlucky number 13” (or 4, if they would be in the Chinese area of influence). I was expecting, at least, “Yes, we combined two rooms into one during the renovation, but we didn’t change the lettering”. I didn’t hear these answers. Instead…

“Oh?”, the receptionist’s eyebrow arched high, as I tried to explain my mathematical confusion.

I got her to confirm that, indeed, some room numbers might be missing in certain hotel areas. “But not on your floor”, she insisted.

Fine, I could’ve been tripping while trying to decipher Hotel Jama’s conundrum, finding clues even when there were none. Wrapped in historical mysteries, the property at the entrance of the equally enigmatic Postojna Cave seemed like it wanted me to play a game. What had I checked into? An escape room, or an – escape hotel?

In this Hotel Jama Postojna review, learn more about its Secret Rooms, and their hidden past.

Exterior of the tiered architecture of Hotel Jama in Postojna, Slovenia, with promenade and shops in the front; photo by Ivan Kralj.
The promenade in front of Hotel Jama connects it with Postojna Cave, with restaurants, cafes, and souvenir shops along the way

Hotel Jama history

Construction on Hotel Jama (pronounced ‘Yama’, meaning ‘Cave’) began in 1969, above Postojna Cave’s train garage.

Back then, Slovenia was just one of six republics forming Yugoslavia, a federation that was voting for its parliament that year.

Students in Ljubljana were chanting for political freedoms and social reforms, protesting everything from the Vietnam War to non-democratic regimes like the one in Greece.

It was an era of resistance, and rebellion, and Rade Šerbedžija starring in “Sedmina”, a drama where wartime Ljubljana was turning a boy into a killer.

Two years flew by, and by 1971, while Americans were marveling at the grand opening of Walt Disney World‘s Magic Kindom in Florida, socialist Slovenia was busy cutting the ribbon on its own crown jewel – Hotel Jama.

Yugoslavia was led by Josip Broz Tito, a charismatic political figure who didn’t want to take sides in the Cold War between Western capitalism and Eastern communism.

Yugoslav president Josip Broz Tito (second from the left) with his wife Jovanka (in red dress) standing besides the Iranian Shah Reza Pahlavi and his wife Farah Diba, hosted at Hotel Jama in Postojna, Slovenia, in 1973; archive photo from the hotel's lobby.
Josip Broz Tito (second from the left) with his wife Jovanka (in the red dress) loved to host other dignitaries at Hotel Jama, such as the Iranian Shah Reza Pahlavi and his wife Farah Diba

In the early 1970s, despite Tito’s whip hand, Yugoslav republics were slowly gaining greater autonomy within the federation. This was especially true in the economy, which was booming.

Freedom of speech was still under construction, much like the hotel. In 1971, Slovenia first forbade, then released with censor intervention, Boštjan Hladnik‘s movie “Maškarada”, an erotic drama about the indulgent lives of the rich elites.

Simultaneously, the opening of the Hotel Jama, with its luxurious, state-of-the-art facilities, was one of Yugoslavia’s efforts to portray itself as part of a modern and progressive world.

And it worked. The hotel became an instant hit, significantly boosting tourism development in Postojna, equally attracting high dignitaries and curious folks to Europe’s largest show cave.

Besides the natural wonder itself (Postojna Cave entertained 39 million visitors over two centuries), the man-made Hotel Jama helped establish Postojna as a major tourist hotspot.

The secret rooms of Hotel Jama

Decades of use had taken their toll on Hotel Jama. By 2009, the once-glamorous hotel was a shadow of its former self, its facilities worn down and its reputation in tatters. The hotel closed its doors, bankrupt, and in dire need of a transformation to meet modern standards.

The renovation work lasted over six years, three times longer than the time it took to erect the hotel from scratch. When it seemed the 8-million-euro facelift neared completion, the plot twisted.

Bothered by a solid steel door in the inner courtyard that construction workers did not change because no one had a key, Marjan Batagelj, the CEO of Postojna Cave company, ordered cutting through the lock.

Heavy lock on a block of paper forms, in the spy center inside Slovenian Hotel Jama, Postojna, a secret space for monitoring suspects during the communist regime; photo by Ivan Kralj.
Some secrets of the past cannot be unlocked just by breaking padlocks

When the door was breached in 2016, they stepped inside and found hidden spaces filled with kilometers of dusty wiring, reels of audio tapes, and stacks of paper logs. These were remnants of a secret communication center, deserted and forgotten since 1991, after the ten-day Slovenian War of Independence marked the start of Yugoslavia’s breakdown.

Interior of one of the Secret Rooms in Hotel Jama, Postojna, Slovenia, a part of the surveillance center during the communist Yugoslavia; photo by Ivan Kralj.
One of the workstations in Hotel Jama’s spy basement

It turned out that, aside from today’s official 156 units, Hotel Jama also had secret chambers all along, rooms and passages hidden from the public eye. Those who ran covert operations from this shadowy underbelly of Cold War intrigue successfully kept their mission confidential for decades, behind tightly sealed lips and doors.

But why would the former regime station such an elaborate spy system in a luxury hotel? Built at a well-connected and strategically significant Postojna Town, a place with a military base, Hotel Jama practically had a guaranteed influx of important political figures. These were probably prime targets of surveillance operations.

What did the most prominent politicians talk about? We won’t find that out just yet. Before hotel representatives could even swift through the Secret Rooms, a squadron of police officers and secret service agents thoroughly combed through the materials abandoned since the communist times.

Hibernation headquarters – cave-inspired comfort

In Hotel Jama’s revamped guest rooms, however, there were no secrets, but more openness, and – choice.

Guestroom interior in Hotel Jama, Postojna, Slovenia, with a large bed with blue pillows and bed runner, the rest of the room in beige and gray tones. En suite bathroom is behind the see-through glass; photo by Ivan Kralj.
With a moss-reminiscent headboard and wooden flooring, you’ll feel as if you could fall asleep at a cave entrance, which is precisely where you are

Space dominated by a plush double bed and velvet-like headboard extended into a mirror-covered wardrobe, as well as a glass-walled en-suite bathroom. For those who believe not all intimate moments should be exposed to natural light and audience, the bathroom could be curtained off, ensuring privacy during a toilet break or eyebrow-plucking in front of a vanity mirror.

Bathroom at Hotel Jama, Postojna, Slovenia, with a walk-in shower; photo by Ivan Kralj.
The use of glass enables an unobstructed flow, not just when the gaze is concerned

The stylish walk-in shower was half-screened by a frameless shower glass panel, continuing the idea of removing visual obstacles in the flowing space. In my case, the shower screen was not fully efficient in keeping the water inside; instead, it was leaking into the toilet zone with every usage. They didn’t have that in the 1970s when practicality took precedence over aesthetics.

To be fully transparent, this concept of appreciation for see-throughness was embraced via the spacious room terrace too. Outfitted with two chairs, a table, and an ashtray (don’t use the last one, for a full nature immersion), the balcony was practically an extended living room. Large sliding glass doors separated the outside from (or – connected it with?) the inside, letting in the verdant charm of Postojna’s surroundings and, via the warm wooden flooring, practically bringing the forest into your lap. There was also a flat-screen TV on the wall, but next to such enjoyable nature vistas, I was never tempted to even turn it on.

Armchair, TV, work desk, and bed in the room of Hotel Jama Postojna, Slovenia, with large glass sliding doors opening the view toward nature; photo by Ivan Kralj.
The modern interior boasts a minimalist charm that whispers “Scandi-chic” rather than “surveillance central”

The elegant room interior was colored in neutral gray and beige tones, practically mimicking a cave, and creating a soothing “hibernate-here” vibe. Green blackout curtains were promising a good night rest, while hints of blue popped up in accents like decorative pillows and a bed runner.

Postojna Cave’s mascot, the olm (Slovenian “human fish”, or “baby dragon” as the locals like to call it), made cameo appearances in the form of room details, like pencils and door handles.

All of this was a result of the renovation that aimed to employ local authenticity while adopting minimalist yet modern interior design solutions.

Browsing history and mystery at Hotel Jama

If you’re the type who needs to squeeze in some work between spelunking and secret-room sleuthing, Hotel Jama’s rooms have you covered. The mini sofa, armchair, or even the desk chair at a long workstation, all make for solid spots to plop down with your laptop.

But as you connect to the Wi-Fi, a little message pops up on your screen: “Other people might be able to see info you send over this network”.

Standard Windows warning on open Wi-Fi networks, saying "Other people might be able to see info you send over this network"; particular WiFi network is the one that belongs to Hotel Jama in Postojna, Slovenia; photo by Ivan Kralj.
Besides the risky open network, there is also, of course, a – hidden one

For most, this standard Windows warning about open networks’ vulnerability to interception is easy to ignore. But here, at Hotel Jama, where Secret Rooms were advertised as an interactive documentary experience on everything from in-room leaflets to DND hotel signs (“Pssst! Discover the former regime’s mystery of Hotel Jama”), the alert of a cybersecurity threat easily got a new layer of reading. Was this just a mostly harmless lack of encryption, or was someone, somewhere, watching you Google “the secret rooms of Hotel Jama”?

Feeling a touch paranoid, you might pick up the room’s telephone, ready to call the front desk for more info, as that was exactly what all these ads suggested you should do.

On the room telephone you read a note that the device could connect you to other rooms, but “international and local calls can be made at the reception”. This was planting another seed of doubt – would they be monitoring you if you headed down to the front desk to place a call?

If you are really worried about surveillance at your vacation rental, get familiar with places people hide hidden cameras and microphones!

Something to hide

While I waited in the hotel lobby, which over the years saw so many distinguished guests (some memorized in photographs encased in wooden frames on the walls), I noticed a bookshelf with mostly Slovenian and English titles and a few lonely Dutch and Korean works.

There was an empty space within this collection. A missing book. In the same pattern I saw with room numbers playing hide-and-seek, one title seemed to be gone.

But the book wasn’t taken away, just shoved to the back of the shelf. It reminded me of my childhood visits to the library in the last years of Yugoslavia. Faced with the strict three-book borrowing limit, I used this exact tucking method to hopefully protect some limited wish-list titles from leaving the shelf before my next library visit. It was selfish, I know, and probably not even effective.

Book "Something to Hide" hidden behind other books on a shelf in the lobby of Hotel Jama, Slovenia; photo by Ivan Kralj.
A mystery novel “Something to Hide” mysteriously hiding in the back of the shelf

To atone for my silly childhood sins, I reached into the book gap, and pulled out Elizabeth George‘s mystery novel “Something to Hide”. Oh, come on! That had to be intentional, right?

As I returned this book about detectives sorting through people’s secret lives to its rightful place, I half-expected the shelf to swing open, revealing a secret passageway – that’s how charged for a Bond-style adventure I was!

But no hidden door, just Kevin Klun Valenčič appeared before me, a tour guide who would take me on a journey through the double life that Hotel Jama lived during its three communist decades.

Kevin was never there, though. A young man who would lead me through the intrigues of the former regime, was born in 1991, when Slovenia proclaimed independence, and Secret Rooms got abandoned.

It was also the year when Oliver Stone‘s “JFK” would come out, a movie where Kevin Costner played a district attorney investigating a conspiracy behind President Kennedy‘s assassination.

Named after the popular movie star, my guide seemed destined to untangle the webs of intrigue and espionage.

Neon signs in Slovenian and English saying "Nothing is as it seems", displayed in one of the Secret Rooms at Hotel Jama, Postojna, Slovenia; photo by Ivan Kralj.
It may seem as if these are two neon signs advertising something that is nothing

A doorway to deception

Our adventure began on the first floor, where a magnetic key unlocked the door to Room 1117. Inside, an empty space, with just a neon sign flickering “Nothing is as it seems”.

In front of the room, a TV screen was showing something radically different – a snapshot of a retro-style ambient.

Back in the 1970s, this floor wasn’t some cryptic minimalist art installation. It was a buzzing lounge/restaurant, radiating glamour and sophistication. With clean lines, bold orange armchairs, hanging globe lamps, and geometric ceiling patterns, the interior reflected the modernist style popular in Yugoslavia at the time, blending function with understated luxury. It was a perfect space to play the role of a cosmopolitan meeting point for diplomats, scientists, and other high-profile guests.

Retro-style ambient of Hotel Jama's lounge/restaurant in the 1970s, with orange furniture and guests enjoying conversations; photo from the hotel's archive, Postojna, Slovenia.
Hotel Jama, as it was in the 1970s

You could practically imagine Hotel Jama’s public spaces buzzing with sounds of lively conversation and clinking glasses. Guests basked in the hotel’s warm, inviting atmosphere, blissfully unaware of the monitoring operations in the secret rooms beneath their feet.

But how did this surveillance hub blend so seamlessly into the hotel’s infrastructure, ensuring that no guest (or even most staff) would suspect its existence?

Next to the hallway’s fire extinguisher, we spotted Room 1118 and opened the door we would never exit through.

Doors to rooms 1118 and 1117 in Hotel Jama, Postojna, an entrance to a secret surveillance hub that was active in socialist times, when Slovenia was a part of Yugoslavia; photo by Ivan Kralj.
From the outside, you couldn’t tell rooms 1117 and 1118 were any different from the other rooms in Hotel Jama

Big Brother’s bar

The entrance corridor displayed vintage Postojna Cave tickets, faded tourist maps, and even tourist glossaries, all evoking nostalgia. But already the next room was scaring you off with the bygone era.

Six vivid red bar stools were lined up, but no barista in sight. It was a self-service bar that offered no cocktails – only a free flow of conversations would pour into our ears. The telephone switchboard-resembling devices were practically time machines enabling fly-on-the-wall gossip experiences.

Red-light telephone switchboard displaying one of 30 wiretapped conversations declassified by the Slovenian secret service for the use in Hotel Jama's Secret Rooms project; photo by Ivan Kralj.
If you were scared of being bugged, but needed to say something confidential, you could just turn up the radio volume

The Slovenian secret service had declassified 30 wiretapped conversations from the communist period, and manual cord switching allowed us to listen in.

“Yes, we’ll be having cabbage”, said one guest.

“Cabbage. Then there’s no need for a salad”, replied the other one.

“Anything to drink?”, a waiter asked a question I would not hear only once that evening.

There was not much context given to the recordings in this audio buffet, leaving it up to listeners to interpret whether innocent exchanges were caught in the web of surveillance, or we were hearing the lingo of spies, possibly even double agents.

Conversation 25. Two female voices on the phone, arranging a cinema date. They would watch “Lawrence of Arabia” with Omar Shariff and Peter O’Toole. But they planned to meet 15 minutes before the projection, so that they could have “a nice slow stroll to the movies”. Their convo sounded suspicious, and if they knew their phones were bugged, a public space rendezvous would’ve probably enabled an exchange without the need for a spy dictionary.

Red bar stools in front of telephone switchboards in Secret Rooms of Hotel Jama, Postojna, Slovenia, which enable listening into conversations of monitored persons in the communist times; photo by Ivan Kralj.
Red is the color of attraction, and eavesdropping is hard to resist

In these “Big Brother” times, listening to old conversations could be oddly addictive. Even when the recordings revealed nothing more than dietary preferences or social plans, the experience let us enter the spy’s shoes. Their listening jobs, in the pre-AI century, surely involved long hours of boredom before they would catch a juicy lead worth exploring further.

A vintage telephone booth installed in the corner of Hotel Jama's Secret Room, a passage to the Yugoslav-era surveillance center that operated within the hotel since the 1970s; photo by Ivan Kralj.
Doctor Who you gonna call?

Hotel Jama’s secret passage

A vintage red phone booth in the corner of Room 1118, a relic of the analog era, had Narnia-style capacity. Picking up the rotary-dial phone didn’t just summon the voice of a mysterious stranger on the other side of the line. After playing with a monitoring paranoia, the instruction said: “Step through!” And I obliged.

Retro telephone receivers hanging from the ceiling, teasingly out of reach, and another neon sign on a bare concrete wall (this time flashing a philosophical warning “It’s all true / a lie”) were the next installations reinforcing the earlier notion that we shouldn’t always trust the first impression.

“When someone says that something is 100% true, or 100% a lie, that simply isn’t true”, Kevin said, making my brain freeze in the loop.

Neon sign switching between "It's all true" and "It's all a lie" in the backstage of Secret Rooms in Hotel Jama, Postojna, Slovenia; photo by Ivan Kralj.
Neon truth just for the eyes of special visitors

“I want to believe”, Fox Mulder in me whispered through. But, with no Superman-style phone booth quick change, I was still just a journalist on an assignment, practically Clark Kent in an alien world. Or even more precisely – the underworld.

Like in Doctor Who‘s TARDIS, Hotel Jama’s time machine was also “bigger on the inside”. A secret staircase unfolded behind the booth, leading deeper into the hotel’s hidden architecture. This was no ordinary staircase. It cut through double walls and concealed corridors that had seen more secrets than an incognito browser window.

The telephone booth was, of course, a modern gimmick. In the past, when the first floor hosted a restaurant, the backstage exit probably had a more practical disguise.

You could come to work your waiter’s shift in a quiet hotel but then step into a portal to spy operations. The ordinary hotel staff could transform into covert operatives.

Just like for me on the visit day, this seemed to be a one-way road; once you were exposed to deep-buried secrets in the bowels of the hotel, there was no coming back.

An abandoned communication center from Yugoslavian era, installed in the basement of Hotel Jama, Postojna, Slovenia, now open to the public through the Secret Rooms tour hotel organizes; photo by Ivan Kralj.
The windowless secret agents’ den under the hotel rooms with a view

Inside the spy bunker

The bottom floor of Hotel Jama revealed a treasure trove of 20th-century gadgets. The four rooms were fitted with typewriters, listening equipment, radios, and complex telephone contraptions, with a red phone line enabling secure connection directly with Belgrade, the Yugoslavian capital.

Concrete walls and exposed wiring emphasized the nature of this space – it was designed for function, not aesthetics.

Radio and recording equipment displayed in Secret Rooms of Hotel Jama, Postojna, Slovenia, with projections of secret agents' shadows on the wall; photo by Ivan Kralj.
In Hotel Jama’s Secret Rooms, Belgrade was on speed dial

Everything was presented in a state that it was found in, and how UDBA, the State Security Service of Yugoslavia, left it, with bottles, newspapers, and other period knickknacks. The staging of the scene included a thick layer of dust on furniture.

You could picture the operators, hunched over their desks under adjustable table lamps, ears pressed to headphones, and eyes scanning endless paper reports.

The lack of windows meant there wasn’t even a hint of daylight to remind them what hour it was. The enemy never slept.

Of course, exhaustion would inevitably hit, shutting their eyes and ears. A gallery-level bed offered a rare reprieve. We could only peer at this spy nap station through a mirror, as climbing up was not permitted. Only secret agents were entitled to siestas there.

There’s no good intelligence work without a clear mind, after all.

Spy bed in the gallery of Secret Rooms in Hotel Jama, Postojna, Slovenia, a place where secret agents could kill some eye; visible via mirrors; photo by Ivan Kralj.
Single bed in an unlikely corner of the hotel

Escape route from Secret Rooms – you can run but you can’t hide

As we walked through this spy cave, a nerve center of analog intelligence, designed for surveillance and eavesdropping, we listened to the only audio recording actually found among the information rubble in these rooms. It was a military-coded report, cryptically rattling off numbers and coordinates of occupied territories, delivered by an operative identifying himself as “Planina 1”.

A shadow of a typist projected on the wall behind typewriter desk displayed in one of the Secret Rooms, a former surveillance center at Hotel Jama, in Postojna, Slovenia; photo by Ivan Kralj.
Transcribing recorded conversations was a steady and secure job, one you typically cannot quit

On the walls of this espionage hub, the shadows of typists were working hard to transcribe the mumbo jumbo into actionable intel.

At the end of their working shift, agents could just easily walk a half-floor up via the same staircase, and vanish through a secret exit – a dressing room connected to a train garage/maintenance room. From there, they could slip into Postojna Cave, and blend in as ordinary visitors among the crowds.

My tour of the Secret Rooms ended at Hotel Jama’s lobby, right where it began. Kevin handed me a brown-paper folder stamped “strictly confidential”. Inside was a file, surveillance number 067/1.9, marked as intended only for the eyes of the President and his inner circle. I certainly hoped Kevin would not get into trouble for sharing it with me!

The file described the suspicious behavior of a “visitor” who had been snooping around, asking “too many questions”. The report said that the supervised individual disappeared from monitoring control while in the telephone booth. There were no details of the incriminating call, but the photograph of the suspect was attached. It was me, snapped through a peephole in the phone booth.

A collage of a photograph of a red telephone box and "strictly confidential" file / surveillance report made during the Secret Rooms tour at Hotel Jama, Slovenia, with an attached photograph of a suspect individual/secret agent? talking to an unknown operative on the other side of the line; photo of and by Ivan Kralj.
I answered the ringing phone, and ended up in a secret service report!

A meal worth investigating

That was the problem of the times. You never knew who was a regular employee, a random visitor, or possibly an agent with a secret mission. The best spy would never (or always?) leave space for doubt.

After the entire experience of Secret Rooms, my radar for potential undercover operatives sharpened up.

There I was, enjoying the buffet dinner at the hotel’s Magical Garden restaurant. As I nibbled on a delicious Carniolan sausage (Kranjska klobasa, Slovenia’s pride and joy), a young waiter approached me.

Appetizer containing some Carniolan sausage, cheese, and salad, with Radenska mineral water on the side, served on a table of Magical Garden Restaurant in Hotel Jama, Postojna, Slovenia, during sunset; photo by Ivan Kralj.
Dinner time – trying to find the best food complementing the sunset colors

“Anything to drink, sir?”, he asked, and I froze mid-bite. Déjà vu hit me.

“No, no cabbage for me”, I wanted to say while his lips moved. But I was more drawn to his groomed handlebar mustache, such an obvious reference to Hercule Poirot. Oh, are we getting detectives, again? Is there another mystery coming up?

The waiter tried to upsell wines, but as someone who spent a summer working for a wine hotel, I again had, if I can quote that not-so-secret report, “too many questions”.

“What type of wine is your house wine?”, I asked.

“We have red and white, sir”, he replied.

“Yeah, but what grapes go into it?”, I said, and the question launched an avalanche of question marks in his gaze. “You know, for these other wines, the menu specifies Chardonnay, Merlot, Pinot… But what is Krasno belo or Krasno rdeče exactly?”

“Hm, I’d have to check, sir”, his mustache twitched. “But I can say that these are all like French wines, but produced here, in Slovenia.”

I didn’t want my Poirot waiter to sweat further, so I just went for local Radenska (Slovenian mineral water, produced in Slovenia), and decided to keep my mouth shut. By stuffing it with food.

A plate with grilled cheese with roasted tomatoes, zucchini with baby spinach and pine nuts, vegetable casserole, fregola sarda with Mediterranean veggies, and turkey strips in the cream-peanut sauce, at buffet dinner in Hotel Jama's Magical Garden Restaurant in Postojna, Slovenia; photo by Ivan Kralj.
I was quite happy with a plate I composed at the buffet

For a buffet, the offer was quite solid. I enjoyed a creamy squash soup, grilled cheese with roasted tomatoes, zucchini with baby spinach and pine nuts, vegetable casserole, fregola sarda with Mediterranean veggies, and turkey strips in the cream-peanut sauce.

The salad bar was respectable, though the dessert was a bit sparse – just two cakes (custard-cream, and fruit panna cotta). Thankfully, there were fruits and ice cream for backup.

The restaurant itself was elegant, with chandeliers and all, its large glass walls framing the golden hues of sunset. I let the spy universe rest and focused on enjoying good food in a beautiful setting.

A morning in the shadows of Yugoslavia

Besides dinner-time Radenska with three hearts (each representing the nations of the former Kingdom of Yugoslavia: Serbs, Croats, and Slovenes), breakfast also brought a nostalgic trip down the YU-flavored memories.

Breakfast plate with Zdenka triangle cheese in the focus, served at Magical Garden Restaurant in Hotel Jama, Postojna, Slovenia; photo by Ivan Kralj.
“Say cheese!”, with some Italian mozzarella and Croatian Zdenka; orange juices number 1 and number 2 on the side

If you wanted to taste local, Hotel Jama allowed you to appreciate the traditions from the other side of the border too. Skip President cheese, and try the creamy Zdenka instead; this Croatian processed cheese comes with a century-old tradition!

Another iconic food product on Hotel Jama’s morning menu was Čokolino, the chocolate-flavored breakfast cereal that has been comforting the region’s kids (and, let’s be honest, adults) for half a century. Vegan and lactose-averse guests could mix this ready-to-eat porridge with soy or rice milk.

Of course, there was also an expected selection of cold cuts and cheeses, croissants, and fruits, some sweet cheese pies, and leftover panna cotta from dinner.

Besides the usual coffee and tea, the drink station was offering four juice varieties – orange, grapefruit, apple, and green. While the servers were rushing around proudly displaying a Slovenian flag on their shoulder, I wanted to ask them about what went into the “green”. But in the end, I settled for orange juice.

Juice station at breakfast of Hotel Jama, Postojna, Slovenia, with a displayed message "Taste the Freshness"; photo by Ivan Kralj.
“Taste the Freshness”, or another “It’s all true / a lie”?

Despite the prominent sign shouting “Taste the Freshness”, these were clearly just rebottled industrially-processed tetrapak juices.

I asked the waitress if it was possible to get a freshly squeezed orange juice, and she confirmed. Sadly, what arrived was a disappointingly watered-down version of what one would expect to get when ordering such a staple breakfast drink at a 4-star hotel.

The breakfast menu at Hotel Jama clearly had some intriguing ideas that complemented the overall concept of a modern hotel built on the cornerstone of the past, but it also had a lot of (not-so-secret) room for improvement.

Adrenaline underground – from hidden rooms to bat treks

Hotel Jama definitely provides comfort right at the entrance of Postojna Cave, one of Slovenia’s largest tourist attractions. If you book a room here, you can count on the convenience of free parking, but also the vicinity of all the things to do.

Besides the basic cave visit, you should take a peek into the Vivarium (where you can meet cave critters that could double as alien extras in a sci-fi flick), and the EXPO Cave Karst exhibition (a deep dive into secrets of geology).

But also, join more than one guided tour! I enjoyed my private Postojna Cave visit with the guide Stanislav Glažar, who seemed to know every stalactite by name. I also learned a lot during the group Trek through Three Caves (Postojna, Pivka, and Black Cave) led by the enthusiastic Peter Gorjup. But the highlight of my underground experiences in Postojna was the adrenaline-pumping trek through the Cave under Predjama Castle with an expert cave navigator Nejc Prinčić and some sleepy companions hanging around – a colony of bats.

Military radio with a message "Attention! The enemy is listening", displayed in Secret Rooms project of Hotel Jama, a former Postojna's surveillance center hidden beneath this iconic Slovenian hotel; photo by Ivan Kralj.
“Attention! The enemy is listening”, a military radio reminder that one should never drop their guard

As for Hotel Jama itself, it did lack some almost expected amenities, such as a spa, or at least a small gym. Maybe Room 1117, instead of just being a storage for a neon sign, could moonlight as a fitness corner? Just a thought.

But what the hotel lacked in treadmills, it compensated by leaning on intriguing and immersive tour experiences. Secret Rooms tour was certainly one such smart project.

I loved being escorted by my tour host Kevin, a dedicated spy storyteller. Yet, having previously tried the self-guided tour too (with an audio guide, and a photo ban), I must admit I preferred the strict loneliness, where questions could remain unanswered. There’s something undeniably thrilling about wandering the unknown halls in secret agent mode, with instructions whispered right into your ear.

If you want to pick Hotel Jama as your Postojna accommodation, you can reserve your stay via Booking or Agoda. But more often than not, you can find even better conditions on Trip. Compare all the prices for your booking dates, and pick the most affordable one! For even more reviews of Hotel Jama, head to the dedicated Tripadvisor page. 

Conclusion – The Renaissance of Hotel Jama

With its roots as a relic of a bygone political era, Hotel Jama managed to evolve into something far more captivating than just a Brutalist icon with cascading tiers and sharp geometric lines that evoke an aesthetic of efficiency and order.

This building that seamlessly blends into the rocky terrain of Postojna, almost like a natural extension of the famous cave system it was designed to serve, showed that there was an afterlife to totalitarian and utilitarian 1970s when overt purpose (tourism) and covert function (state security) coexisted under the same roof. One was greeting guests with brochures and buffets, the other eavesdropping on whispered conversations through miles of hidden wiring.

With a welcoming facade and vibrant outdoor terraces contrasted with its hidden secret, Yugoslavia made an effort to present a hospitable, progressive image while maintaining its strategic defenses.

Secret Rooms were a space where information flowed in only one direction and nothing was meant to leave. The new hotel management ebraced something radically different

Fast forward to the present, Hotel Jama has been renovated to meet contemporary standards, from softer landscaping of greenery, ornamental grasses, and colorful flowers, to clean minimalism of interior design and energy efficiency. However, it still remains a unique monument of previous times, with history as a central part of its allure.

The Secret Rooms were a space where information flowed in only one direction and nothing was meant to leave. The new management embraced something radically different – transparency (both literal, with glass walls flooding rooms with natural light, and metaphorical, by revealing the hotel’s secretive past).

The truth is out there. Well, so is the lie, as the neon sign so sincerely confessed. In tourism, where marketing success is measured by stories that sell, even the greatest fantasies can become lucrative realities.

Hotel Jama reminds us that the unseen – the untold – is often what lingers longest in our minds.

Did you like this review of Hotel Jama in Postojna and its Secret Rooms?
Leave your comments below, and pin the article for later!

Beneath regular guest rooms at Hotel Jama in Postojna, Slovenia, lies a secret. Since the 1970s, when the hotel was built, its hidden basement housed a surveillance center run by the former communist regime. Abandoned after the end of Yugoslavia, now this spy hub is open to visitors of Postojna. Read all about this extraordinary place that managed to stay hidden for decades, in our Hotel Jama review!

Disclosure: My stay at the Hotel Jama was complimentary, but all opinions are my own.

Also, this post may contain affiliate links, meaning if you click on them and make a purchase, Pipeaway may make a small commission, at no additional cost to you. Thank you for supporting our work!

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🐕 Dog Works in Mysterious Ways – Pipeaway Newsletter #148 https://www.pipeaway.com/newsletter-148/ https://www.pipeaway.com/newsletter-148/#respond Mon, 30 Dec 2024 16:06:42 +0000 https://www.pipeaway.com/?p=13292 Pipeaway Newsletter #148: In a very religious environment, Christmas morning brought puppies to daylight.

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Hi from Davao!

This is the last town on my Philippines tour. Already tomorrow, I’ll be flying to Singapore, to literally spend “the longest night in the year” there.

I’ll tell you more about it in a bit, but first, I have to thank you all for the heartfelt messages you sent after the Christmas edition of the newsletter. It’s always nice to feel the pulse of the readers, and the story starring my Panglao host Elvira resonated with quite a few of you. Many thought the example was exceptional.

But, guess what! A week later, I was on the island of Bohol, where I unknowingly booked a room in – a church! And history repeated itself: my hosts went above and beyond to treat me not like a guest, but like a member of the family. Besides just accommodation with included breakfast (a package I paid for – AND it costed less than 15 euros!), they also generously offered to share their  Christmas Eve and Christmas lunch with me.

I learned a lot from this:

a) Filipinos are sweet.
b) They love to add sugar to what we consider savory food, such as macaroni and cheese with chicken.
c) They live the mantra that life gives back what you give to life.

One doesn’t have to be religious to see that what Jim and Arlene Crain are doing with their Soul Center in Batuan is an impressive endeavor. They started a secular/commercial project of a guesthouse so it would finance their non-lucrative work with local children.

While it could be a surprise to check in at a hotel with a neon-glowing cross at the entrance, I love the fact that hosts don’t try to convert their guests, or hard sell the idea of God or salvation.

It reminded me of one of those extraordinary couchsurfing stories I shared, where a Jesus aficionado hosted me in Budapest without forcing me to pray before sleep. There is power in subtlety.

Just before this Filipino-American family of donut missionaries (well, one could argue that luring children with sugar is like exploiting someone’s weakness) invited me to join their festive feast, I witnessed a Christmas miracle in their backyard. It was a nativity scene at a place where nobody expected it. Click on the link if puppies make you melt.

But it came time to say goodbye to Bohol and Panglao, places where I learned that I could touch the power lines the same way Michelangelo’s Adam joins a fingertip with God. That’s how close the afterlife can be in Asia.

Well, an American recently electrocuted himself when he slipped on a street in Phuket and grabbed a faulty lamppost. Some of these streetlights are so danger-heavy that I am surprised these types of accidents don’t happen even more often.

In 2004, however, an entire region slipped under the unstoppable power of a tsunami that claimed over 220,000 lives. Two decades later, those who were lost remain frozen in memories of those who survived, just like the still wave that’s in the center of the Khao Lak tsunami memorial.

Stopping time is an illusion. We only have so little of it at our disposal.

For tomorrow’s flight to Singapore Changi, arguably the best airport in the world, I intentionally decided to extend my transit time. Instead of just rushing through this spectacular place, I’ll spend nearly 24 hours at one of the most exciting world airports!

That will be my New Year’s Eve. And New Year’s Day.

What about you?

Have the longest night of happiness!

Ivan Kralj        
Pipeaway.com


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Ban Nam Khem Tsunami Memorial Park: Khao Lak’s Waves of Reflection https://www.pipeaway.com/ban-nam-khem-tsunami-memorial-park-khao-lak/ https://www.pipeaway.com/ban-nam-khem-tsunami-memorial-park-khao-lak/#respond Sat, 28 Dec 2024 16:13:28 +0000 https://www.pipeaway.com/?p=13191 Ban Nam Khem is a Thai village that suffered huge human losses in the 2004 tsunami. Through Tsunami Memorial Park, Khao Lak honors lost lives...

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On Boxing Day, December 26, 2004, a 9.1-magnitude earthquake near Sumatra triggered one of the deadliest natural disasters in modern history. The Indian Ocean tsunami claimed over 220,000 lives and displaced 1.7 million people across 14 countries, leaving behind unimaginable destruction and grief.

Two decades after the deadliest tsunami in Thailand, Ban Nam Khem is a testament to resilience and remembrance

Southern Thailand, particularly Khao Lak in Phan Nga Province, bore the brunt of the waves. At the heart of this devastation lay Ban Nam Khem, a small fishing village that lost a quarter of its population.

Today, two decades after the deadliest tsunami in Thailand, Ban Nam Khem is not just a place of tragedy but a testament to resilience and remembrance.

In the special episode of Pipeaway Walks, we follow the coastline of Khao Lak, tracing a path from the luxurious Pullman Khao Lak Resort to the solemn Ban Nam Khem Tsunami Memorial Park. It’s a walk that bridges the serene present with a haunting past, offering a chance to reflect and honor the lives lost.

A Journey Along Bang Muang Beach

The large swimming pool at the Pullman Khao Lak Resort in Thailand; photo by Ivan Kralj.
Pullman’s free-form pool in Khao Lak

The walk begins at the Pullman Khao Lak Resort, a luxurious 5-star property that opened its doors in 2021, reintroducing the permission to associate water with the world of fun.

The main 1000-sqm pool, villas that offer 41-sqm private pools, and amenities ranging from a swim-up bar to a twin-looped water slide are complemented by an environmental sustainability program that addresses water conservation and the hotel’s broader ecological impact.

Shallow wave passing over the sandy Bang Muang Beach, with a lonely tree sticking out slantwise; Khao Lak, Thailand, photo by Ivan Kralj.
Even the usual waves erode Bang Muang Beach which was completely swallowed by the 2004 tsunami

Pullman’s pristine setting along Bang Muang Beach is a stark contrast to the memories etched into the coastline defined by the Andaman Sea.

As we tread further along the beach, the sand gives way to the Ban Nam Khem Tsunami Memorial Park, a space created in 2006 to honor those who perished in the disaster. This poignant location tells a story not just of loss but of recovery and reverence. Every step reveals a deeper layer of connection to the events of that fateful day.

Curved wall with victim names plaques at Ban Nam Khem Tsunami Memorial Park in Khao Lak; photo by Ivan Kralj.
The memorial wall is 10 times smaller than the tsunami wave that erased entire neighborhoods

Ban Nam Khem Tsunami Memorial Park – A Place of Remembrance

The central feature of the park is a large curved wall, its design mimicking the shape of a tsunami wave. Engraved on its surface are plaques bearing the names of victims, both locals and international visitors, who lost their lives when the waves struck.

Standing before this wall, you cannot help but feel the weight of what these names represent – lives abruptly and tragically cut short. Some memorialized victims were just 10 years old.

Golden seated Buddha at Ban Nam Khem Tsunami Memorial Park in Khao Lak, Thailand; photo by Ivan Kralj.
Buddha statue at the Tsunami Memorial Park symbolizes peace in tragedy

At the edge of the memorial stands a golden statue of a seated Buddha, its back facing the Andaman Sea. Villagers believe this Buddha offers protection for those venturing into the waters, so they worship it before embarking on new journeys.

Spirit shrines in the park further enhance its spiritual atmosphere, with offerings that often include bottles of famous fizzy drinks. It all feeds the spiritual solace, as locals and visitors alike pay their respects in quiet prayers.

Aerial view of fishermen boats in Ban Nam Khem, Khao Lak, Phan Nga Province, Thailand; photo by Ivan Kralj.
Fishermen’s boats anchored at Ban Nam Khem

One particularly poignant element of the memorial is the small fishing boat that once carried a member of the Thai royal family. The grandson of the Thai king lost his life during the tsunami, a sobering reminder that this disaster spared no one, regardless of status.

Sign at the Pullman Khao Lak Resort marking the evacuation route in case of tsunami; photo by Ivan Kralj.
Tsunami evacuation route sign at the Pullman Khao Lak Resort

For those eager to deepen their understanding, the Tsunami Memorial Museum in Nam Khem, just 1.3 kilometers away, offers broader insights into the local impact of the tsunami and the community’s recovery. There is no entrance fee for the museum (open every day except for Mondays and Tuesdays, from 08:30 a.m. to 4:30 p.m.), the same as for the entire Ban Nam Khem Tsunami Memorial Park (open daily from 8 a.m. to 8 p.m.).

If you’re planning a visit, book your stay at Pullman Khao Lak. Check out the latest offers and reviews on platforms like Booking, Agoda, and Trip.com. 

Khao Lak Tsunami – Keep the Memory Alive

Khao Lak has rebuilt itself as a premier travel destination, yet places like Ban Nam Khem ensure that the past is conserved. They stand as a reminder of nature’s power and the human spirit’s ability to endure.

By walking the path along Khao Lak’s tsunami beach, you’re honoring a story that must never be forgotten

Walking from Pullman Khao Lak to Ban Nam Khem Tsunami Memorial Park is more than a physical journey. It’s a reflective experience that allows you to connect with history in a meditative, deeply personal way. By visiting sites like these, we honor the memories of those who were lost and learn from the resilience of those who survived.

In a world often driven by leisure and escapism, it’s crucial to make space for remembrance. Beaches may be beautiful, but a travel experience that embraces history is both enriching and humbling. By walking the path along Khao Lak’s tsunami beach, you’re not just exploring. You’re honoring a story that must never be forgotten.

Watch the full sixth episode of Pipeaway Walks as we explore Khao Lak, from the luxurious Pullman Resort to the heartfelt tributes of Ban Nam Khem Tsunami Memorial Park.

Don’t forget to subscribe to the Pipeaway channel for more journeys into the meaningful corners of our world.

Share your thoughts on Ban Nam Khem Tsunami Memorial Park in Khao Lak in the comment section below!
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In 2004, Indian Ocean tsunami carried away 220,000 human lives. At Ban Nam Khem, a small fishing village in Southern Thailand, where a quarter of the population perished, victims are still remembered at the Tsunami Memorial Center Khao Lak; photo by Ivan Kralj.

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🎅 Ho, Ho, Hold Your Reindeers! – Pipeaway Newsletter #147 https://www.pipeaway.com/newsletter-147/ https://www.pipeaway.com/newsletter-147/#respond Mon, 23 Dec 2024 16:00:25 +0000 https://www.pipeaway.com/?p=13214 Pipeaway Newsletter #147: Merry Christmas, to you and all your families!

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Hi from Bohol!

My Western brain is trained on the notion of a “white Christmas”, but on this Philippine island, all I can see falling is a massive amount of rain.

Even if I love spending winters away from the cold, I still associate New Year holidays with snowy decor. So, when local kids approach me singing Christmas carols, such as on Moalboal Beach in Cebu last week, I do feel culturally displaced.

“That’s all nice, but I could never travel alone like that”, my sister tells me.

As I hear Mariah Carey’s song echoing outside my room in Loboc, the holiday spirit unites people looking for an easy reason to celebrate. Could one traveling the Philippine islands start to feel like an island as well – alone?

A couple of days ago, I stayed in Panglao, at Elvira’s Homestay. To be honest, I booked the place mainly because it was close to where the ferry from Cebu docks. But what I got was much more than a room, a feeling that in these times when we are all economically exploitable, you can still be embraced like a member of a family, for no apparent reason.

“This is normal for us, relax, feel like at your home”, Elvira would say when I would express my surprise with an unexpected afternoon fruit platter, free breakfast or complimentary tea, water and bread, spaghetti Bolognese with a Coke that suddenly appeared on my terrace before departure, or her proposal to drive me to the neighboring island to simplify my search for a bus transfer.

All of these have a price, and it is certainly not covered by the 13 euros that I paid for a night in a single room I booked.

I didn’t feel I deserved to be spoiled so much, but there was such kindness in this woman’s eyes. She was definitely a person who breathed hospitality. And while I offered to shoot her property with a drone (to give at least some value back), this never felt like a transaction. Her hug at departure felt genuine, and so did her messages to confirm my safe arrival to the next destination.

Well, it’s not paradise. The next day, it happened that I stayed in an overpriced hotel with a non-functional bathroom and uninterested hosts. But just because there are people who strayed into tourism to rob you of both money and decency, it doesn’t mean that those who just like the simplicity of life that comes with kindness are endemic, like Philippine tarsiers.

Even when traveling alone, it is possible to find one’s tribe among strangers. It is possible to communicate with smiles even when you don’t share a language.

I like this idea that traveling connects us with our families, and not necessarily drifts us away from them.

I haven’t published a new article yet, but I did open a new social media account today – on Bluesky. Wanna follow Pipeaway there? Check it out – my first post is a photograph of one of the tiniest primates in the world, a creature that can fit in my palm!

This is how I see myself exploring the world. With eyes wide open. Curious about that hugely important person I will meet next.

Have a social week!

Ivan Kralj        
Pipeaway.com


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🌃 Dr. Jekyll and Mr. Hyde – Pipeaway Newsletter #146 https://www.pipeaway.com/newsletter-146/ https://www.pipeaway.com/newsletter-146/#respond Mon, 16 Dec 2024 16:00:47 +0000 https://www.pipeaway.com/?p=13210 Pipeaway Newsletter #146: From dusk till dawn, from dawn till dusk - markets are the spice of the world.

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This is the archived version of our free weekly newsletter. To start receiving it in your mailbox on the send-out day, join the newsletter list!

Hi from Palawan!

I fell in love with this Philippine archipelago five years ago, when I joined my first island hopping tour in Coron, a place I still consider to be among the prettiest corners of the planet. I did join another boat tour this time around too. But more on that on another occasion.

Besides natural beauties, new environments always strike me with a lifestyle that comes in the package. Personally, I love exploring both street and indoor markets and getting to know what locals consume on a daily basis.

Whether it’s an unusual display of pork, turtle, and even rat meat in countries like Cambodia and Laos, or a quirky cat employee on one stall in Thailand, markets are great places to “read” a country.

I love what’s “written” even in the supermarkets. For instance, in the Philippines, I became über-obsessed with all things ube. After trying some mouthwatering cakes with beloved Filipino purple yam, now no snack with ube cannot escape my radar. The hobby of scouting shops for new yam treats goes to an extent that I’m practically facing ube-überdosing. Probably another topic that requires its own article.

Well, this week I was more focused on finishing editing a few videos I made in Thailand. A couple of them offer an insight into the daily life of the species that doesn’t seem to be bothered by overeating.

While most macaque connoisseurs are familiar with the Lopburi Monkey Festival (check out the freshly edited six-minute video here), not many people consider that Lopburi furries need to eat beyond the annual monkey banquet.

Well, every morning, one woman gets up early to visit the local fresh market, scouring for discarded fruits and vegetables that would become monkeys’ lunch. Meet Sumalee Srichomphoo, a Lopburi citizen I christened the Goose Lady, as her morning market visits are always accompanied by a cute bird she adopted! The duo stars in the Pipeaway Walks video – check it out, if you have time!

Before we put the topic of markets to sleep, we cannot skip the nocturnal version of the same thing, a sort of Mr. Hyde to Dr. Jekyll – the night markets.

Chiang Mai has some really famous ones. Influential personalities such as Anthony Bourdain managed to propel night market chefs to legends, for instance, the Cowboy Hat Lady.

But besides just traditional night bazaars, Chiang Mai is also famous for being a digital nomad hub, with the epicenter of this trendy movement on Nimmanhaemin Road. And right there, streets come to life after dark, in a series of Nimman night markets that seamlessly blend into each other. You can witness these modern urban hangouts through another Pipeaway Walks video!

That’s a lot to digest this week. Try to do it with a monkey’s appetite.

Have a great week, days and nights!

Ivan Kralj        
Pipeaway.com


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Nimman Night Markets: The Creative Heartbeat of Chiang Mai https://www.pipeaway.com/nimman-night-markets-chiang-mai/ https://www.pipeaway.com/nimman-night-markets-chiang-mai/#respond Sun, 15 Dec 2024 19:08:14 +0000 https://www.pipeaway.com/?p=13173 In Chiang Mai, streets are full of life even after dark. Explore food, fashion, and fun at Nimman night markets!

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Chiang Mai’s vibrant Nimmanhaemin Road, known simply as Nimman, is more than just a trendy neighborhood; it’s a cultural hub where modernity and tradition collide under the stars. Located in the west of Chiang Mai’s Old City, Nimman is where the cool kids hang out. And at night? Well, that’s when things get deliciously interesting.

Nimman night markets are a feast for your senses and your Instagram feed

Nimman night markets are the stars of our latest Pipeaway Walks YouTube episode. Take a half an hour, and stroll with us to feel the vibrant energy of the place, with a whirlwind of sights, sounds, and flavors.

Before you start itching to book a flight to Chiang Mai, let’s dive into what makes the Nimman night markets a feast for your senses and your Instagram feed.

Young woman with a curler in her hair observing a painting being sold at the White Market, one of Nimman night markets in Chiang Mai, Thailand; photo by Ivan Kralj.

Nimman’s History and Culture

Nimmanhaemin Road wasn’t always the bustling hub of creativity it is today. It started humbly as a quiet residential street before, in 2010s, blossoming into a hotspot for digital nomads, hipsters, and hungry travelers. Picture a Thai grandma’s spice rack meeting a Silicon Valley co-working space, and you’ve got Nimman’s vibe.

Night markets are some of the most recognizable Chiang Mai attractions. But here, these aren’t just places to shop – they’re stages where tradition and innovation dance together, fueled by street food and artisanal flair.

And okay, at Nimman, everything may seem overpriced, especially if you are used to Chiang Mai treating your wallet gently.

Where to stay in Nimman?

If you want to stay close to the heart of the action, consider booking Zivi Nimman. Their double bedrooms get stellar reviews! Depending on the date of your booking, you can find them already at 3.400 baht per night (approx. 95 euros or 100 dollars). For a budget accommodation, choose modernly designed Bed Addict Hostel. A bed in dormitory can be found for 500 baht (14 euros or 15 dollars).

Exploring Nimman Night Markets

One Nimman – The Centerpiece of Night Market Culture

At the heart of the neighborhood is the One Nimman lifestyle mall, a photogenic hotspot that blends European piazza charm with Northern Thai Lanna artistry. By night, its courtyards transform into markets where every stall seems to whisper: “You know you want this.”

Nimman Street Food Night Market

Hungry? You’re in luck. Vendors here offer everything from grilled squid (perfectly charred and smoky) to hashimaki and spicy khanom krok (those little coconut milk pancake bombs with a fiery twist). Add to that a parade of meat, fish, and veggie skewers, corndogs, grass jelly desserts, dinosaur dougnuts, and chocolate-dipped strawberries, and you’ll be rolling home instead of walking. Oh, and don’t miss the rich green curry noodles and yaki suki for the ultimate comfort food!

Hashimaki - okonomiyaki wrapped around chopsticks - at a food stall on Nimman Street Food Night Market; photo by Ivan Kralj.
Hashimaki is okonomiyaki (savoury Japanese pancake) wrapped around chopsticks
If you are a fan of plant-based street food, you should visit Phuket Vegetarian Festival!

White Market

This weekend-only gem offers handcrafted Japanese-Lanna ceramics, textiles so soft you’ll want to hug them, and jewelry that screams “I’m unique!” You’ll often see artisans at work, like one painting portraits or another spinning clay into masterpieces right before your eyes.

An artist spinning a clay on a wheel at the White Market, Japanese-Lanna night street market in Chiang Mai, Thailand; photo by Ivan Kralj.
Clay-spinner at work

Craft Market

If vintage-style clothes, quirky trinkets, and upcycled masterpieces are your thing, welcome to your personal artisanal treasure hunt. Bonus points if you leave with something that makes your friends go: “Where did you get that?!”

Colorful purses displayed on a stall at the Craft Market in Nimman, Chiang Mai, Thailand; photo by Ivan Kralj.
Purses that steal attention

Beyond One Nimman – Other Markets to Explore

Night market magic isn’t confined to just Nimman’s location. Venture a little further, and you’ll stumble upon more gems:

Think Park Night Market

It’s got that chill, laid-back vibe where you can browse, snack, and people-watch all at once. Think less “mad dash” and more “slow stroll.”

Rincome Night Market

Small but mighty, this market offers a cozy selection of street food and locally made goodies. Perfect for when you’re in the mood for discovery without the overwhelm.

Chiang Mai University Night Market

If you’ve ever wanted to eat like a student without actually having to study, this is your spot. Cheap, cheerful, and packed with flavors – from grilled skewers to sweet roti pancakes.

Why Nimman Night Markets Stand Out

These markets aren’t just about shopping; they’re about soaking up an ambiance that’s as eclectic as it is electric. Whether you’re digging through vintage clothing racks or inhaling the aroma of freshly grilled skewers, you’ll find yourself smiling. Why? Because these markets manage to feel both upscale and approachable, like a five-star restaurant serving street food on fine china (well, metaphorically speaking).

But what makes Nimman Night Markets so special? Unlike traditional Chiang Mai markets, the Nimman night markets have an upscale, almost Western vibe, making them ideal for travelers seeking a fresh perspective. The creative energy of the neighborhood is palpable, with its mix of local craftsmanship, global influences, and a vibrant nightlife scene.

Stand-out Prices Too

Food is the star of any night market, and Nimman’s offerings don’t disappoint. Beyond the staples, Michelin-recognized Roti Pha Dae makes an appearance, albeit with a fancier price tag. While their original Tha Phae Road location sells roti from 15 to 45 baht, here you’ll pay 50 to 90 baht for indulgent combos like banana-egg-cheese-Nutella. But hey, it has a Bib Gourmand label – splurge a little!

Food stall by Roti Pha Dae at Nimman Street Food Night Market, recognized by Michelin with Bib Gourmand label; photo by Ivan Kralj.
Roti Pha Dae going west; on the east side of the city walls prices of the same vendor are up to three times cheaper

More Than Just Food

The Nimman night markets are alive with creativity and entertainment. Wander through the maze of stalls and you’ll encounter:

Young live bands and acoustic guitar players (from up-and-comers to seasoned street performers).

A mesmerizing street violinist whose melodies make the night magical.

A walking-frozen silver man with a hat (yes, the human statue game is strong).

The Ganesha Temple at Come On Nimman, where you can tie colorful ribbons while making wishes – a serene moment amid the hustle and bustle.

Tips for Visiting Nimman Night Markets

1. Timing Is Everything

Markets start buzzing after 5 p.m., but weekends are prime time for peak offerings and people-watching.

2. Come Hungry

Trust us, you’ll regret that pre-market dinner when you see the variety here.

3. Cash Is King

Unless you have the option to pay via that Thai QR code, don't count on digital payments with your card. A stack of small bills will make your night smoother.

4. Chat with Vendors

Every item has a story, and every vendor has a tale. Don’t miss the chance to connect.

5. Bring a Bag

You’ll need it for all the cool finds you’ll "accidentally" buy.

Discover More with Pipeaway

At Pipeaway, we’re all about finding the world’s quirkiest, tastiest, and most unforgettable experiences.

Whether you’re a foodie, a culture vulture, or just someone who loves a good market ramble, Nimman’s night markets will steal your heart.

So grab your sense of adventure (and your wallet), and let’s explore Chiang Mai’s most hyped-up marketplace!

Watch our video for a sneak peek and let us know your favorite market moment in the comments! Don’t forget to like, share, and subscribe to stay updated.

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In Chiang Mai's digital nomad neighborhood, night markets are places of special events. Explore food, fashion, and entertainment at Nimman night markets!

Disclosure: This post may contain affiliate links, meaning if you click on them and make a purchase, Pipeaway may make a small commission, at no additional cost to you. Thank you for supporting our work!

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